周五/六/日爬Mt. St. Helens (April, 8-10,2016)

lulululu

Vera这段写得非常好！转过来给我们提个醒

vera
Mt. Shasta, CA - contd.

我在读Shasta的TR时，不知不觉中发现它们都有一个共同之处，就是都提到了glissade，其中一个还说，垂直下降1000多米，他12分钟就滑完了。还没看到山的样子，我就知道从Helen Lake可以一直滑到Horse Camp，心想，看来这是很多人的共识，那一定有他们的道理吧？比如说，比较安全？其实，我知道博士是坚决反对坐滑的，以前即便是从松鸡山的Dam下来，还得再三请示才偶尔可以过一点点瘾、解解馋。这次怎么办呢？要不要说呢？我斗争了很久，最后还是忍不住告诉了博士我读TR的结果，故意轻描淡写地提到glissade，说不知为什么大家都提到滑下去。博士马上说那可不是什么好主意。“可是他们并没有说是因为累了才要滑下去啊”，我还这样辩解。"那是你不知道还有多少人出了事的，你只看到没出事的。"他这样一说，我马上哑巴了，这倒也是啊，我只看到了成功的例子，却忘了去看accident的报告了。（可此时已在TH，临时抱佛脚也来不及了，心想那就见机行事吧）

我知道博士说得有道理，但是还是有些侥幸的心理，我想，也许等博士看到山的样子，或许会改变主意呢？或许他看到大批的人下滑，也会觉得特别安全呢？于是，有备无患，我就偷偷往包里放了两个大大的黑色的塑料袋（一个是为博士准备的，万一可以滑，那我只顾自己多说不过去啊，但是没敢告诉他，结果回到了停车场，他都不知道我还带了这个）。

计划没有变化快。当发现整座山只有唯一的我们时，本来我预期中目睹一个个由上而下滑滑梯的轰轰烈烈的场景是没戏了，博士也许会受影响的可能当然也就没有了。下了Red Banks后，就是超大的斜坡，斜度均匀，我想很多人看了都会心动的，但是，我可没有胆量说我要滑下去。别的不说，仅从遵守纪律这一条，就不能。不管队伍大小，作为队员，都应该尊重、服从trip leader或者organizer的决定。（不然，还会有下次吗？）When God closes a door, He opens a window. 有失必有得。 正是因为要一步一步走下去，才给了我练习crampons下雪坡的机会，才有了突破性的进步，这给我带来的成就感远远超出了滑下去可能带来的一时的快感。

整个下山我们用了近5小时，随着海拔的降低，温度升高，渐渐地crampons踩下去越来越深，便换了雪鞋继续，直到TH。在这个过程中，我注意到整个雪坡看起来是个大滑面，但是雪况并不完全一样。从冰爪踩下去的不同深度就知道，有些地方雪很硬，走过后不留痕迹；有些地方，很松软，个个脚印清晰。此刻，万分庆幸听了博士的话，没有造次，老老实实下山，否则一旦滑向硬雪，速度快，平衡易失，想依靠self-arrest，赌注太大了，真没法保证自己是赢家。

回来后开始补课，吓了一跳，大量的关于glissading的事故报告，触目惊心。你看，

[quote]
On April 16, 2005, veteran Southern California mountaineer and author Robert (R.J.) Secor, lost control of his voluntary glissade and slid, hit rocks and tumbled down a steep hard snow slope about 1,200 vertical feet ......  R.J has had a long and difficult hospital stay .....Witnesses saw Secor don glissading pants, start down the slope in the classic sitting glissade position, and then lose control of his speed. He was not wearing a helmet. Using his ice ax, he tried to self-arrest but was unable to slow down. He hit some rocks and rolled to the bottom....... He was found to have a broken shoulder blade, broken ribs, and skull fractures, and spent months in the intensive care unit, fighting episodes of low blood pressure and pneumonia. .....Friends who visited Secor in those first weeks were shocked to see him weak and thin, heavily sedated, on a ventilator to reduce the pressure on his brain, and unable to speak or recognize them

(48岁的Secor，丰富的登山背景哦）

再看一个，他是登山新手，在Shasta坐滑，结果幸运地保住了小命、以缝了11针结尾：“Turned out I needed eleven of them - 4 in my eye, 4 in the upper puncture wound, and 3 in the lower puncture wound. ”，有兴趣的可以去读他的详细glissading的报告：
http://climber.org/reports/1996/113.html

谢谢博士的坚持，给我上了这难忘的一课，glissading再也不能诱惑我了！

Walk down step by step, no glissading
[/quote]

lulululu

GPS data

lulululu

周日回程前可以走个lower cave， 一小时左右

http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation/ape-cave/index.shtml

.....During this eruptive period, hot fluid lava pulsed through the tube for months, possibly up to a year, until the eruption subsided. As a result of this rare eruption, a spectacular 13,042 foot (3976m) long lava tube, the third longest in North America, was created. ....

Lower Cave - Easier Route

The main entrance divides the cave into two sections, the upper cave and lower cave. The three-quarter-mile (1200m) lower portion takes about one hour round-trip to complete. Interesting geological features include the meatball and the railroad tracks.

The meatball is a block of cooled lava which fell from the lava tube ceiling while lava was still flowing through the cave. It floated on the surface of the lava flow and was ferried downstream until it became wedged in a narrow spot 12 feet (4m) above the present cave floor.

The railroad tracks are levees that formed along the side of a tongue of flowing lava. As the fluid lava drained out of the tube, the levees remained intact.

The sandy floor found in the lower section of the cave formed when volcanic ash, pumice and other debris washed into the cave following eruptive episodes as recent as 450 years ago. Debris from these events filled the cave’s lower section, ultimately plugging its lower end. As a result, visitors must return to the main entrance in order to exit the cave.

Upper Cave - More Difficult Route

The 1½-mile (2100m), upper portion of the cave takes about 2½ hours to complete, returning on a surface trail. Cavers must climb over approximately 27 boulder piles and scale an 8-foot (2.5m) high lava fall.

The boulder piles, called breakdown, formed after the eruption subsided and the fluid lava drained from the tube. As the lava tube cooled, it began to shrink and crack. These cracks weakened the ceiling and walls causing parts of them to collapse. The entrances to Ape Cave formed in this way.

There is a skylight in the tube near the upper exit. However, to finish the upper cave, continue on through the tube to a permanently attached metal ladder. Serious injuries have occurred when individuals have attempted to exit the cave through this skylight.

David Luo

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四人一车：
夏日奶茶
麦芒
WanchaiBoz
katcatus

四人一车：
Laowei
Chanel Wang
gentle
lulu

四人一车：
无敌兔和无敌兔ld
磐石
white snow

二人一车
YinG & David