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鞋类术语表

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发表于 2005-11-29 09:12:10 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
鞋类术语表



原文来自www.MEC.ca
中文翻译仅供参考,请勿用于商业用途

Footwear Glossary
鞋类术语表

MEC members demand a lot from their footwear, whether they are
attempting to run the Rideau Trail in a day, or building a snowcave
to wait out a St. Elias storm. Shoes and boots designed for
the backcountry are complex products that utilize different
design, fabrics, and construction to perform different functions.
MEC的成员对他们的鞋有多种需求,不论他们打算白天在崎岖道路上奔驰,
还是打个雪洞躲过一场暴风雪。为荒郊野外设计的鞋和靴子是复杂的产品,
它们采用不同的设计,织物和结构以实现不同的功能。

Boot parts include:
鞋类包括这些组成部分:

uppers (the body) made of leather, synthetics or plastic
鞋面(鞋身)由皮革,合成纤维和塑料制成

soles and midsoles
鞋底和鞋底夹层(中底)

components such as counters, rands, and liners
其他部分如垫板,鞋边护皮,衬里

--------------------------------------------------------------
Uppers
鞋面材料

Full-grain Leather
全皮
This material retains the top or outer membrane of the hide,
which contains dense, tight fibres that are water-resistant
and supportive. It conforms well to the foot over time, can
be waterproofed, is abrasion-resistant, and will last for years
when properly cared for. If this membrane faces outward, it
is called "smooth-out." When it faces inward, "rough-out" leather
protects the tighter fibres of the top grain from abrasion (giving
the leather a longer functional life). Full grain leather can
vary in thickness, depending on the starting thickness of the
hide and on what part of the hide the leather is taken from.
Thicker leathers require longer to break in, but make a more
durable, supportive boot. Some footwear is made with thicker
leather only in the high-wear, high-support areas, and thinner,
lighter, and more breathable leather in the remaining sections.
这种材料保留了动物皮革的顶层或者说外层表皮,这层表皮包含致密、
紧绷的纤维,具有抗水和支持性能。全皮经过一段时间后可以很好的适应
脚部,可以进行防水处理,抗磨损,通过适当的保养可以使用数年。如果
表皮朝外,它被称作“光面”的。如果它朝里,这种“毛面”的皮革可保
护顶层的紧绷纤维免受磨损(提供给皮革更长的使用寿命)。全皮的厚度
可以差别很大,这取决于动物皮革的原始厚度,以及它来自动物皮革的哪
一部分。较厚的皮革需要更长的时间来磨合,但制成的靴子更耐用,更具
有支持性。一些鞋只在较多磨损和支撑的区域使用厚的皮革,而将较薄,
较轻,透气性更好的皮革用于其他部分。

Nubuck
绒面皮革 (Nubuk?)

A leather finishing process, not a type of leather. It involves
sanding the top grain leather surface which gives it a "fuzzy"
appearance. This surface texture is sometimes mistaken for suede,
but nubuck is actually a full-grain leather. It can be factory
treated for waterproofness.
这是一种皮革制成工艺,而不是皮革的种类。它包括打磨皮革顶层表皮,
以形成一种“绒毛”状的外观。这种表面的质地某些时候会被错认为suede,
但nubuck实际上是一种全皮。它可以通过工业处理以得到防水性。

Suede
绒面柔软皮革

There are two distinct layers in a leather hide; the outermost
(top grain) layer and the lower (split) layer. Suede is created
by sanding the split leather surface to roughen it up. It is
generally less abrasion-resistant, more prone to stretching,
and less stiff than full-grain leather. It also absorbs water
more easily. Tanning processes or copious applications of goop
can make suede waterproof, but it remains less appropriate for
heavy-duty outings. Flexibility, breathability, and lower price
make it a good choice for lighter use trips.
动物皮革包括截然不同的两层,上层(表皮)和下层(分割层)。suede
是通过打磨分割层皮革的表面,使它变粗糙而得到的。比起全皮,它通常
较不耐磨损,更容易拉伸,不太坚硬。它也更容易吸水。制革工艺和粘胶
的大量使用可使得suede防水,但对于重级别的旅行,它保持良好性能的
时间较短。柔韧性,透气性和较低的价格使得它成为用于较轻松旅途的很
好选择。

Fabric
纤维织物

Includes a wide range of materials used to construct mesh for
high breathability and woven fabrics for greater durability.
In general, lighter weight fabrics are more breathable, and
easier to break in. Fabric is not as durable as leather, and
is difficult to waterproof unless it is used in conjunction
with a waterproof breathable membrane like Gore-Tex. It is
often used with suede, leather, or synthetic reinforcing panels
to construct footwear that achieves a good balance of support,
lightness, and breathability.
包括很广范围内的材料,用于构建高透气性的网状和高耐久性的机织织
物。通常,越轻的纤维织物透气性越好,也越容易磨合。纤维织物不如
皮革耐用,也很难防水,除非和一层防水透气薄膜结合使用,如Gore-Tex。
它通常和suede、全皮或者人造的加强嵌条一起构成鞋,以达到支持性,
轻便性和透气性的良好平衡。

Synthetic Nubuck
合成皮革

Synthetic fibers are bonded together and finished with a suede-like
texture for added durability. Although it is less breathable
and less waterproof than leather, it is much less expensive.
将合成纤维粘合在一起,形成类似suede的质地,可更加耐久。虽然它
不如皮革的透气性和防水性好,但它远比皮革便宜。

Plastics (or Nylon)
塑料(或尼龙)

Plastic mountaineering boots provide absolute waterproofness
and are extremely durable. The rigidity of plastic boots makes
them well-suited to use with crampons in extreme conditions.
Plastics, however, will not break in, and are used almost exclusively
in "double" boots where a padded inner boot buffers the foot
from the outer shell.
塑料高山靴提供了绝对防水以及非常耐久的性能。塑料靴的硬度使得它
们可以很好的在极端条件下配合冰爪使用。不过,塑料不可能被磨合,
所以几乎专门用于“双层”靴子上,其中有一个填充在内部的靴子缓冲
脚和外壳。

--------------------------------------------------------------
Midsoles and Outsoles
中底和大底

The midsole is a cushioning layer between the outsole and the
upper. The shank is a stiffener that controls the flexibility
of the sole. Full-length shanks offer additional torsional rigidity
and protection to the underside of the foot.
中底是大底和鞋身之间的缓冲层。鞋芯垫片是控制鞋底弹性的加强部件。
全长垫片提供额外的扭转刚性和对脚部下侧的保护。

The outsole is where the boot meets the trail. Available in
different compositions of rubber with various tread patterns.
大底是脚接触道路的地方。可采用不同成分橡胶和多种鞋底花纹。

EVA: Ethyl/vinyl acetate
EVA:乙烯-醋酸乙烯共聚物

The spongy material found under your foot in many running shoes.
A shock-absorbing material that's lighter than polyurethane
(see PU).
在很多跑鞋中,都能在你的脚下找到的海绵状材料。是一种比聚氨酯(
参见PU)轻的吸收震动的材料。

Compression Molded EVA

压缩注塑EVA

Compression molding distributes the EVA foam within the midsole
to areas that need the most cushioning.
压缩注塑可以将中底内的EVA泡沫分布在需要最多缓冲的区域。

Dual Density Midsoles
双密度中底

Two different densities of foam within the same midsole. Allows
manufacturers to fine tune performance by creating different
levels of support or cushioning.
在中底内有两种不同密度的泡沫。通过构成不同程度的支持性和减震性,
为厂家精细地调整性能提供了可能。

PU: Polyurethane
PU:聚氨酯


A rubber-like material used for shock absorption. Heavier than
EVA.
一种用于减震的类似橡胶的材料。比EVA重。

Microporous Rubber
微孔橡胶

Rubber with a cellular structure. The cells are filled with
air and provide support and cushioning. Generally firmer, more
durable, and slightly heavier than EVA and PU.
具有多孔状结构的橡胶。孔内填充空气,可提供支持性和减震性。通常
比EVA和PU更坚硬,更耐用,也稍微重一些。

--------------------------------------------------------------
Components
其他部分

Eyelets
鞋眼和鞋环

Holes or riveted loops/hooks which secure the boot laces.
绑鞋带用的孔和铆上的环、钩。

Footbeds
鞋垫

The part of the sole that your foot lies directly upon. Often
removable, the footbed is contoured and provides moderate cushioning.
Aftermarket footbeds can improve boot fit.
你的脚直接踩在上面的鞋底部分。通常可拆卸,鞋垫的曲线形态可提供
缓和的减震。选配调整的鞋垫可以提高鞋的适应度。

Heel/Toe Counters
脚跟或脚尖保护垫板

Counters provide support and help the upper wrap around the
foot. They also help protect the heel and toes from impact.
垫板提供支撑,协助鞋面环绕在脚的周围。它们也能帮助保护脚跟和脚尖
免受冲击。

Liners
衬里

Literally, the "lining" on the inside of the shoe or boot. Synthetic
liners such as Cambrelle offer lightweight, quick-drying comfort
and resist mildew. Leather liners are extremely durable and
cooler to wear, but take longer to dry. Waterproof-breathable
Gore-Tex fabric is either built into boots between the liners
and uppers, or is bonded to other fabrics. Gore-Tex increases
water-resistance but may feel hot against your foot.
按字面意思,“衬里”位于鞋或靴的里侧。合成衬里如Cambrelle(DuPont
公司的合成纤维织物)提供轻便,快干舒适和防霉性能。皮革衬里非常耐用,
穿着凉爽,但干的较慢。防水并且透气的Gore-Tex面料可固定在鞋的衬里和
鞋面之间,或粘合在其他织物上。Gore-Tex提高防水性能,但可能使你的脚
感到热。

Rands
鞋边护皮

Thin rubber bindings that run around the junction of the upper
and sole and part way up the boot. Rands add to a boot's overall
waterproofness and protect the upper from abrasion.
环绕鞋面和鞋底接合部的薄橡胶滚边,部分位于鞋面上。护皮增加鞋的全面
防水能力,保护鞋面不受磨损。

Rocker
鞋底凸出

The curvature of the sole from the heel to the toe of a boot
to facilitate walking.
是鞋从脚跟到脚尖的鞋底弯曲,使行走更容易。

Scree Collars
碎石护圈

Lightly padded cuff at the top of the upper that keeps out debris.
很松地填补在鞋帮顶部翻边处,以防止碎石进入。

Tongues
鞋舌

Not only provide padding for the top of the foot, but gussetted
tongues keep out grit and debris between the sock and liner.
Asymmetric tongues add support and comfort.
不仅为脚的顶部提供衬垫,三角型鞋舌还能防止砂石碎屑进入袜子和衬里
之间。不对称形状的鞋舌还附加支撑和舒适性。
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