The Rudiments of Alpine
The Rudiments of AlpineBelow is online material that supplements our Alpine Workshops and Alpine 101 training.
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Content has been Compiled, Inspected, Approved and Recommended by 潘世博.
Great Alpine is waiting for you! 8)
Photo: Climbers approaching standard Colman-Deming Glacier route on mount Baker, WA (3,286 m). Taken from North Ridge on Jul-24 2010.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OnbIVAN6QhM/TE4DKR3AFTI/AAAAAAAAIwI/iWOcdJLKbMc/s800/IMG_2431.jpg The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.
Climbing Fundamentals
Basic Safety System
1.Fall Factor
2. How to Break Nylon & Dyneema® Slings
Knots
1. Figure 8
2. Prussik Knot
3. Double Fisherman's Knot
4. Clove hitch
5. Munter hitch
6.Bowline Knot+ variation
7.Girth hitch
8.Butterfly Knot
9. Overhand Knot
10. Munter Mule + variation
11. Slip Knot
12. Water Knot
Belaying
Top Rope and Lowering
Belaying the Leader
Escaping the Belay
Belaying second off anchor
Rapelling
Knots for Rappelling
Passing the Knot on Rappel
Anchors
Gear and Gear Placement
Rock Protection
Pitons
Rock climbing
Lead Fall
Snow & Ice Climbing
Snow Travel and Climbing
Self-Arrest
How to ice-axe self arrest
Using crampons
Ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads
Emergency Prevention and Response
Alpine Rescue / Rescue From Technical Terrain
3:1 (Z) pulley system
5:1 Pulley System with a Petzl Reverso
Double Mariner Hauling Kit
Hauling: Counting Tensions & Estimating System Efficiency
Equipment
Carabiners
Harness
Helmet
Petzl Reverso (3) Belay Device
TIBLOC
Crampons
Avalanche transceiver Tracker DTS
Learning from Mistakes
1. British climber fall from Snowdon
2. The Beckoning Silence
3. Search suspended for hiker missing near Chilliwack.
4. NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS
5. A New Unwedded Widow's Journey
Miscellaneous
Appendix
1. Top ten technical skills of modern Alpine Climber
2. Glossary of climbing terms
3. Video playlist of supporting material
Other
1. Ammon McNeely
2. Alex Honnold
Link to this topic: http://goo.gl/J0UhVY
Figure 8 Knot
Figure 8 KnotWhen to Use: attaching the rope to a sit harness
https://www.youtube.com/v/tFffbkXSgNI?hl=en_US&hl=en_US
References
http://www.singingrock.com/attaching-the-rope-to-a-sit-harness
Prussik Knot
Prussik KnotWhen to Use: as a backup for rappelling, as a ratchet in rescue systems, in (crevasse) hauling, climbing the rope, escaping belay, passing the knot
https://www.youtube.com/v/P0d8-Fxdx8Y?hl=en_US&hl=en_US
References
http://www.animatedknots.com/prusik/index.php?Categ=climbing
Rock Climbing Basics: Toprope Belay Technique
Rock Climbing Basics: Toprope Belay Techniquehttps://www.youtube.com/v/CFIz4cBFVro?hl=en_US&hl=en_US Double Fisherman's Knot
When to Use: to join two ropes together
https://www.youtube.com/v/O6oJwedcb18?hl=en_US&hl=en_US
Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_fisherman%27s_knot
Helmet
HelmetHelmets are a crucial piece of safety equipment for a variety of vertical activities. They protect the head against falling objects and against impacts with fixed objects - if the climber's head strikes the cliff in a fall, for example.
https://www.youtube.com/v/MJhngt_wS2Y?hl=en_US&hl=en_US
Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rock-climbing_equipment#Helmet Clove Hitch
When to Use: to tie in to the anchor on multipitch
https://www.youtube.com/v/THxt73kE_N8?hl=en_US&hl=en_US
Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clove_hitch Munter hitch
When to Use: to belay, to rappel
https://www.youtube.com/v/02RrSIRl_rQ?hl=en_US&hl=en_US
Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munter_hitch
Fall Factor
About Fall Factorhttps://www.youtube.com/v/GTC0dNG4Ygg?hl=en_US&hl=en_US
Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fall_factor
self arrest
Ice axe arrest / self arrest"Self-arrest is a mountaineering related maneuver in which a climber who has fallen and is sliding down a snow or ice slope arrests (stops) the slide by himself or herself without recourse to a rope or other belay system." - Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills
https://www.youtube.com/v/94QFImjdEAo?hl=en_US&hl=en_US
Reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Self-arrest 5. Emergency Prevention and Response / Alpine Rescue / Rescue From Technical Terrain
3:1 (Z) Pulley System
https://www.youtube.com/v/y6gz6WaO1_0?hl=en_US&hl=en_US
Reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Z-drag Bowline Knot
The bowline is sometimes referred as King of the knots because of its importance.
When to Use: to form a fixed loop at the end of a rope
https://www.youtube.com/v/hIdsTZTUl6E?hl=en_US&hl=en_US
References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowline Girth hitch
A simple and useful knotted structure, the knot has been known since at least the first century when described by Greek physician Heraklas in a monograph on surgical knots and slings.
When to Use: to attach a rope to an object
https://www.youtube.com/v/WqQPHmUgNSA?hl=en_US&hl=en_US
References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cow_hitch
Butterfly Knot
Butterfly KnotWhen to Use: to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope
https://www.youtube.com/v/IVyu_Afnqu4?hl=en_US&hl=en_US
References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butterfly_loop Overhand Knot
The overhand knot is one of the most fundamental knots and forms the basis of many others.
When to Use: to prevent the end of a rope from unraveling
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/44/EdioHalveknoop.jpg/250px-EdioHalveknoop.jpg
References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overhand_knot How to belay the leader with a REVERSO
https://www.youtube.com/v/ymJb6tW5_BE?hl=en_US&hl=en_US
References:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belaying
http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/belaying-leader-in-rock-climbing
Petzl Reverso
Petzl Reverso (3) Belay DeviceA Reverso is a belay device developed and patented by Petzl, used for example in rock-climbing and other activities which involves rope-work. Another version of this device is the Reversino, intended for use with thinner ropes.
https://www.youtube.com/v/-Ij9Es5QRY4?hl=en_US&hl=en_US
References
http://www.petzl.com/files/all/technical-notice/Sport/B01-TIBLOC.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reverso
Escaping the Belay
Escaping the Belayhttps://www.youtube.com/v/a81LC0wjO0k?hl=en_US&hl=en_US Munter Mule Knot
When to use: tying off a climber.
https://www.youtube.com/v/XkIHoJBzECs?hl=en_US&hl=en_US