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The Rudiments of Alpine

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发表于 2014-5-15 05:24:33 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
The Rudiments of Alpine
Below is online material that supplements our Alpine Workshops and Alpine 101 training.


Content has been Compiled, Inspected, Approved and Recommended by 潘世博.

Great Alpine is waiting for you! 8)

Photo: Climbers approaching standard Colman-Deming Glacier route on mount Baker, WA (3,286 m). Taken from North Ridge on Jul-24 2010.
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-15 05:25:38 | 显示全部楼层
The Rudiments of Alpine. Directory.

Climbing Fundamentals
Basic Safety System
1.  Fall Factor
2. How to Break Nylon & Dyneema® Slings [Vid]

Knots
1. Figure 8
2. Prussik Knot
3. Double Fisherman's Knot
4. Clove hitch
5. Munter hitch
6.  Bowline Knot  + variation   
7.  Girth hitch
8.  Butterfly Knot
9. Overhand Knot
10. Munter Mule + variation
11. Slip Knot
12. Water Knot

Belaying
Top Rope and Lowering
Belaying the Leader
Escaping the Belay
Belaying second off anchor

Rapelling
Knots for Rappelling
Passing the Knot on Rappel

Anchors
Gear and Gear Placement

Rock Protection
Pitons

Rock climbing
Lead Fall

Snow & Ice Climbing
Snow Travel and Climbing
Self-Arrest
How to ice-axe self arrest
Using crampons
Ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads

Emergency Prevention and Response
Alpine Rescue / Rescue From Technical Terrain
3:1 (Z) pulley system
5:1 Pulley System with a Petzl Reverso
Double Mariner Hauling Kit
Hauling: Counting Tensions & Estimating System Efficiency


Equipment
Carabiners
Harness
Helmet
Petzl Reverso (3) Belay Device
TIBLOC
Crampons
Avalanche transceiver Tracker DTS


Learning from Mistakes
1. British climber fall from Snowdon
2. The Beckoning Silence
3. Search suspended for hiker missing near Chilliwack.
4. NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS
5. A New Unwedded Widow's Journey


Miscellaneous


Appendix
1. Top ten technical skills of modern Alpine Climber
2. Glossary of climbing terms
3. Video playlist of supporting material

Other
1. Ammon McNeely
2. Alex Honnold



Link to this topic: http://goo.gl/J0UhVY
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-15 05:26:43 | 显示全部楼层

Figure 8 Knot

Figure 8 Knot

When to Use: attaching the rope to a sit harness



References
http://www.singingrock.com/attaching-the-rope-to-a-sit-harness
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-15 05:27:51 | 显示全部楼层

Prussik Knot

Prussik Knot

When to Use: as a backup for rappelling, as a ratchet in rescue systems, in (crevasse) hauling, climbing the rope, escaping belay, passing the knot



References
http://www.animatedknots.com/prusik/index.php?Categ=climbing
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-15 06:32:14 | 显示全部楼层

Rock Climbing Basics: Toprope Belay Technique

Rock Climbing Basics: Toprope Belay Technique

 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-15 09:13:23 | 显示全部楼层
Double Fisherman's Knot

When to Use: to join two ropes together



Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_fisherman%27s_knot
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-15 09:35:10 | 显示全部楼层

Helmet

Helmet

Helmets are a crucial piece of safety equipment for a variety of vertical activities. They protect the head against falling objects and against impacts with fixed objects - if the climber's head strikes the cliff in a fall, for example.



Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rock-climbing_equipment#Helmet

A broken helmet after a climber fell into a crevasse. Emmons Glacier, Mount Rainier, WA, Sep-2013

A broken helmet after a climber fell into a crevasse. Emmons Glacier, Mount Rainier, WA, Sep-2013
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-16 04:48:14 | 显示全部楼层
Clove Hitch

When to Use: to tie in to the anchor on multipitch



Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clove_hitch
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-16 05:03:15 | 显示全部楼层
Munter hitch

When to Use: to belay, to rappel



Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munter_hitch
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-16 06:45:00 | 显示全部楼层

Fall Factor

About Fall Factor



Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fall_factor
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-16 08:30:09 | 显示全部楼层

self arrest

Ice axe arrest / self arrest

"Self-arrest is a mountaineering related maneuver in which a climber who has fallen and is sliding down a snow or ice slope arrests (stops) the slide by himself or herself without recourse to a rope or other belay system." - Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills



Reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Self-arrest
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-16 12:14:03 | 显示全部楼层
5. Emergency Prevention and Response / Alpine Rescue / Rescue From Technical Terrain

3:1 (Z) Pulley System



Reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Z-drag
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-16 15:13:58 | 显示全部楼层
Bowline Knot
The bowline is sometimes referred as King of the knots because of its importance.

When to Use: to form a fixed loop at the end of a rope



References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowline
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-16 15:44:30 | 显示全部楼层
Girth hitch
A simple and useful knotted structure, the knot has been known since at least the first century when described by Greek physician Heraklas in a monograph on surgical knots and slings.

When to Use: to attach a rope to an object



References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cow_hitch
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-16 15:50:53 | 显示全部楼层

Butterfly Knot

Butterfly Knot

When to Use: to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope



References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butterfly_loop
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-16 18:06:45 | 显示全部楼层
Overhand Knot
The overhand knot is one of the most fundamental knots and forms the basis of many others.

When to Use: to prevent the end of a rope from unraveling



References
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overhand_knot
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-16 18:20:36 | 显示全部楼层
How to belay the leader with a REVERSO



References:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belaying
http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/belaying-leader-in-rock-climbing
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-16 19:06:31 | 显示全部楼层

Petzl Reverso

Petzl Reverso (3) Belay Device

A Reverso is a belay device developed and patented by Petzl, used for example in rock-climbing and other activities which involves rope-work. Another version of this device is the Reversino, intended for use with thinner ropes.



References
http://www.petzl.com/files/all/t ... port/B01-TIBLOC.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reverso
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-17 05:17:23 | 显示全部楼层

Escaping the Belay

Escaping the Belay

 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-18 19:10:16 | 显示全部楼层
Munter Mule Knot

When to use: tying off a climber.

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