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Alpine Workshops

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发表于 2014-2-19 12:06:40 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Alpine Workshop - Introduction to Emergency Alpine Rappel
In memory of Tim Jones. All proceeds go directly to NSR.
http://goo.gl/IrpfQb

EVENT IS FULL. REGISTRATION CLOSED.




Agenda:
1. Alpine Safety.
2. Alpine Gear. Minimalistic Set.
3. Basic Theory.
4. Fundamental Alpine Knots: purpose, techniques, drill.
5. Making prusik slings.
6. Alpine Anchors.
7. Rappel Technique: theory + drill

Required Gear:
1. Helmet
2. Climbing Harness
3. 2 locking carabiners: 1 large pear shaped, 1 medium ( http://www.mec.ca/shop/locking/50264/ )
4. Belay device, Reverso is recommended ( http://www.mec.ca/product/5027-1 ... -device/?f=10+50294 )
5. 5mm static cord ( length 12 meters ) MEC: http://www.mec.ca/product/0403-048/mammut-5mm-static-cord/
6. Pocket knife (if you have)
7. Lighter
8. Snow shoes + crampons (if you have)
9. Snow shovel (if you have)
10. Gloves (cotton garden gloves just fine)

Weather: http://www.viewweather.com/w7945 ... itish_columbia.html

Avalanche: http://www.avalanche.ca/cac/bulletins/latest/north-shore

NOTE: if minimum safety levels are not met, the trip will be canceled, last minute cancellations do occur.

IMPORTANT
THIS EVENT IS NOT 100% SAFE
DURING THIS TRIP YOU MAY SEVERELY INJURE YOURSELF OR DIE. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL YOUR ACTIONS.

ALTHOUGH the organizer of this trip has received training in mountaineering and alpine/crevasse rescue, he is NOT a professional mountaineer, guide or trained first aid attendant. The function of the organizer is only to organize the trip, ensure it gets underway and be familiar or have knowledge of the access to the area, the route or routes. Participants on a trip are responsible for their own safety and are expected to have the necessary skills, experience, fitness, suitable first aid supplies and appropriate equipment in good working order.

*All trip coordination is emailed to the address that you provided to trip organizer, you are responsible to check it often.
 楼主| 发表于 2014-2-19 12:08:59 | 显示全部楼层

报名者

报名者

EVENT IS FULL. REGISTRATION CLOSED.
1. reserved / confirmed
2. reserved / confirmed
3. reserved / confirmed
4. reserved / confirmed
5. reserved / confirmed
6. reserved / confirmed
 楼主| 发表于 2014-2-19 13:13:43 | 显示全部楼层

Alpine Mix

Alpine Mix from past Alpine Series and trips. See Alpine Rappel drill at 1:55. 8)

 楼主| 发表于 2014-2-21 08:52:34 | 显示全部楼层

TRIP STATUS: GO

TRIP STATUS: GO

Comprehensive GPS File Here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/zvihbq ... ehensive%202014.gdb

Map Here: http://goo.gl/maps/KsyGK

http://goo.gl/maps/KsyGK

http://goo.gl/maps/KsyGK
 楼主| 发表于 2014-2-21 10:11:36 | 显示全部楼层

TRAVEL PLAN

行程的状态: 去

集合时间地点已经公布。星期天见! 8)
 楼主| 发表于 2014-2-23 19:45:02 | 显示全部楼层
第38次博士组织的活动 完成了。一切都顺利。

The crew has established a new record of longest time hiking up BCMC trail: exactly 9 hours; started 09:00, came to the chalet 18:00 8)

 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-13 14:58:33 | 显示全部楼层
Alpine Workshop series continued.

Rock Climbing Essentials

Agenda:
- introduction to belay
- lowering partner
- climbing beginners rock

Location: Sugarloaf Crag, Murrin Park, Squamish



"Are we going to climb this?"
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-13 15:34:11 | 显示全部楼层
The best belay instructions are given when instructor gets to be belayed by the student whom he has just finished training. Surely such a system will not miss a thing ( or brutal process of natural selection will take care of it.) 8)

Photo: Lieback Crack (5.7), Sugarloaf Crag, Murrin Park, Squamish
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-19 19:09:47 | 显示全部楼层
LONG WEEKEND - 3 DAYS ALPINE WORKSHOP COMPLETED

Skills Learned / Practiced
Ten Fundamental Alpine Knots
Alpine Rappel
Self arrest with ace ax
Hauling systems 1:1, 2:1, 3:1
Using TIBLOC and REVERSO
Climbing rappel rope
Releasing locked prusik
Moving in pairs through technical terrain
Transferring load using munter mule
Locking belay device with slip knot
Basics of crevasse rescue response

Video : slippery rock of alpine rappel


Climbing Rappel Rope
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-24 18:23:34 | 显示全部楼层
SAT MAY-24 : ALPINE WORKSHOP SKILL #9 - SRENE principle and Basic Alpine Anchors has just safely concluded.  8)

Agenda
Knots - review ( see list of alpine knots here: http://goo.gl/J0UhVY )
Rappel - drill
SRENE principle and Basic Alpine Anchors

PHOTO: Getting ready to rappel off snow anchor.
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-24 19:13:14 | 显示全部楼层
Getting it right. Rappel mistakes are often expensive.

 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-24 19:15:12 | 显示全部楼层
Making it safe with SRENE. Rigging two snow-pickets matrix.

 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-24 20:17:11 | 显示全部楼层
12 Alpine Knots - review.

 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-25 10:13:35 | 显示全部楼层
After eight hours of abstract theory, practice and tough drills. That's how students should look like. Happy that is. 8)

 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-25 10:18:18 | 显示全部楼层
They say a hand-writing shows one's character. If so, tossing an alpine rope should show one's alpine character, for the trained eye at least. 8)

发表于 2014-5-26 09:57:51 | 显示全部楼层

[分享]

All of us are trying hard to get Dr's certificate now as we want to go to Mt Baker. Looking forward to . . .
Thanks a lot for excellent teaching.
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-27 21:12:03 | 显示全部楼层
Today was a good session @ Dennett Lake Bluff. The surface more real to alpine ( and much less suitable for  Rock Climbing Shoes )

Agenda:
Alpine Certificate Test - Skill 2 ( Fundamental alpine knots)
Class - Skill 4.4.b and 4.4.c
Drill - Skill 5 - Rappel on an over-hanging cliff

Photo: Rigging Sliding X off two fixed bolts @ Dennett Lake Bluff
 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-28 06:20:54 | 显示全部楼层
Dennett Lake Bluff, overhang looking good. 8)

 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-28 06:24:08 | 显示全部楼层
Edge Acrobatics (Dennett Lake Bluff)

 楼主| 发表于 2014-5-28 06:29:34 | 显示全部楼层
Mossy surface - no need for rock shoes.

P.S. It makes sense to learn and practice rappel on skinny slippery ropes (e.g. Beal 8mm) to get the idea. After that riding 8.3 mm half-rope is just a breeze. 8)

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