Alpine Workshops

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-5-30 06:41:49

Alpine Tip #12 - Liquid Intake

On the day before the trip consume your food in liquid or semi-liquid form. Avoid low-calories food that takes time to digest such as apples, meat, etc.

In doing so you will avoid keeping unnecessary undigested items in your system, keeping your body weight in check. When your pack is 45lb and you are going 1.5 km vertical, every extra ounce counts!

Your body will get well hydrated too. Protein drinks, milk, yogurt, soups, 豆腐，麦片粥 - all will be good. 8)

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-2 05:52:12

Weekend Alpine Camp @ Motel 66 ( May 31- June 1, 2014 )

Such a great weekend it was, +super conditions! 8)

PHOTO: Classes started at 06:30 a.m. Rigging first hauling system (skill 5.a.1 and 5.a.2). Mighty North Face of Joffre Peak dominates background.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-2 07:20:35

Weekend Alpine Camp @ Motel 66 ( May 31- June 1, 2014 )

Carrying ~45 lb backpack is unavoidable reality of alpine climbing. That's why it is called alpine style in the first place.

Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment, etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style (or siege style) mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure. ..

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpine_style

PHOTO: This logging road is now part of the summer trail to Keith's Hut. Before we used to drive on it right to here which was parking lot. Not anymore. 8)

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-2 08:05:36

Weekend Alpine Camp @ Motel 66 ( May 31- June 1, 2014 )

Alpine Tip #22, even with crampons on, it works!
How to keep feet dry in spring snow

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-2 09:21:44

Weekend Alpine Camp @ Motel 66 ( May 31- June 1, 2014 )

Belay is using two main actions: pay and take. Unexpectedly, we had to know this stuff before even reaching the camp. Learning live from real situations always sticks, no? 8)

Photo: Skill #3 (belaying). Snowshoeing a snow traverse on belay.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-2 10:17:38

Weekend Alpine Camp @ Motel 66 ( May 31- June 1, 2014 )

Camping on the ridge just above Keith's hut.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-2 10:49:33

Weekend Alpine Camp @ Motel 66 ( May 31- June 1, 2014 )

Mount Matier (2,783 m) at sunset.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-2 18:11:54

Weekend Alpine Camp @ Motel 66 ( May 31- June 1, 2014 )

Mastering belay: you either take or pay the rope. Skill #3 (belaying). Always remember ABC (anchor - belayer - climber )

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-2 21:07:31

没有人相信这个茶壶的体积是1升。我本来也是! 8)

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-3 05:07:11

Weekend Alpine Camp @ Motel 66 ( May 31- June 1, 2014 )

"Self-arrest" is rather funny name for important survival skill.

Photo: Introducing skill #9.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-3 08:30:20

Weekend Alpine Camp @ Motel 66 ( May 31- June 1, 2014 )

No fear.

Photo: mastering skill #9.2.a - Self arrest with an ice ax

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-3 18:40:18

Weekend Alpine Camp @ Motel 66 ( May 31- June 1, 2014 )

越来越利害。

Photo: mastering skill #9.2.b - Self arrest with an ice ax

jinsi · 发表于 2014-6-3 19:24:27

Weekend Alpine Camp @ Motel 66 ( May 31- June 1, 2014 )

Great group, great teacher, beautiful area, and excellent weather - it was a perfect weekend! :)

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-4 05:05:44

Weekend Alpine Camp @ Motel 66 ( May 31- June 1, 2014 )

Mastering skill #2.2.a : SRENE principle and Basic Alpine Anchors. Rigging three-points anchor with Sliding-X.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-4 07:02:20

Weekend Alpine Camp @ Motel 66 ( May 31- June 1, 2014 )

Quality control, Top Ten Technical Skills of The Modern Alpine Climber

skill #4 - Using fall factor to assess impact forces ( incl. the concept of Jesus nut )
skill #3.a.3 - Belaying leader via redirect.

lulululu · 发表于 2014-6-4 07:06:54

PanShiBo
"How you win shows your skills, how you lose shows your character." D330.4

We like your quote,very good one,very true as well :lol:

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-4 19:07:30

Weekend Alpine Camp @ Motel 66 ( May 31- June 1, 2014 )

Going home. Creek crossing on snowshoes.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-4 19:39:20

Alpine Workshop @ Bog Wall, Murrin park

Certifying skill #8 - Climbing rope with two prusik slings

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-6 07:26:47

Alpine Workshop @ Malamute

Practice hard, practice often. For the price of a mistake is expensive:

Rappelling, the act of descending by making a controlled slide down a climbing rope, is one of climbing’s most dangerous techniques since the rappeller relies exclusively on both his equipment and his anchors for total safety. When you lean back on your rappel rope and commit to going down, your safety is completely dependent on your equipment.
..

Year after year rappelling accidents account for many climbing fatalities and injuries, making it statistically one of the most dangerous climbing activities you will learn and practice. If there is an upside to the danger of rappelling it is that most accidents occur as a result of the climber’s misjudgment and errors and can be avoided.

Skills 1, 2, 3, 4, 7

PanShiBo · 发表于 2014-6-21 18:10:39

Alpine Workshop JUN-21-2014

Good session, lot of progress!

Photo: mastering switch from climbing to rappel

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Alpine Workshops

Alpine Tip #12 - Liquid Intake

Mount Matier (2,783 m) at sunset.