2015 04.06-04.08 * Joffre Peak - Aussie Couloir

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Crossing Anniversary Glacier.

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At the top of Aussie Couloir. Mt. Matier  behind (our trip in December) .

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At the top of Aussie Couloir. Joffre Peak 20 meters behind.

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Exiting from Aussie Couloir. Mt. Matier right across Matier Glacier below.

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We counted on forecast of freezing levels 1,000 m hoping snow will be cold and frozen. But noon time at the peak showed already 1C and this was not so good, meaning the freezing levels rose to 2,700 m and we now had to deal with potential consequences of rapid warming (=avalanches). We didn't linger much and started descent. That's when an avalanche hit us from above. At the time we were roped, protected with two snow pickets and downclimbing facing the slope. This provided enough stability and did not knock us from the feet, we both just dropped faces down with ice-axes in self arrest, the blocks of hardened snow ran over our bodies. The impact of falling slabs left dents on our helmets, but otherwise we were not hurt. After the avy stopped the rope between us was buried under.

Photo: some avalanche snow still remains inside helmet's vents.

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This  cornice fracture line only opened after waking on it (see foot print) and partially dropping in. On the right is the main cornice mass ready to detach. In between is the deep empty gap - one can see the inside.

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Because downclimbing is harder than actual climbing, most technical alpine routes have non-technical returns from the summit ("tourist" routes). Not the case with Aussie Couloir - it has to be downclimbed the same way it was climbed. After having been bombed by an avalanche higher up we downclimbed it in a record time I am sure. 8)

everie

读来真是惊险，再崇拜一下。 :cb:

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Time to relax. Steep no more! 8)

Photo: At the base of Aussie Couloir, looking towards Mt. Matier. Our footprints made in the morning.

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Until next time! Mt. Matier on left, Joffre Peak on the right, and our footprints can be seen on Anniversary Glacier in the middle. Photo taken from Keith's hut. 8)

beijihu

了不起啊！

有平缓些，适合大众走的线路就好了。

有机会也去那儿看看

PanShiBo

PanShiBo
From previous day from Keith's Hut I saw there was a huge cornice hanging above the North side..

Apparently, many folks do not quite realize what a cornice  is and what it means..who knew that sadly, exactly two years after this, a collapsed cornice on Mt. Harvey will claim lives...

LilyQ

读来真是很惊险，看来雪崩预报也不能完全相信，谢谢博士科普！