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 楼主| 发表于 2022-5-13 03:42:49 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, May-13

2019 Denali Expedition, day 2/23

Our very first camp. Kahiltna Glacier. N63.02578 W151.18675 at 2,308m







"Ski Hill" - moving camp to 2,866m



 楼主| 发表于 2022-5-14 03:35:17 | 显示全部楼层

On This Day, May-14

2019 Denali Expedition, day 3/23

Moving to Camp 3 at N63.07449 W151.17067 (3,084 m). Summit temperatures: below -30°C, windy.






2016 (6 years ago) Mount Athabasca, Canadian Rockies




 楼主| 发表于 2022-5-15 03:46:18 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, May 15

2019 Denali Expedition, day 4/23

Well-deserved rest day at Camp 3. Summits so far: 0. Summit temperatures: below -30°C.


Climbing team returning home. No summit: "..it was cold, real cold.."




Inside tent


The Alaskan view from Kahiltna Glacier


 楼主| 发表于 2022-5-16 03:27:01 | 显示全部楼层

On this day May-16

2019 Denali Expedition, day 5/23

Moved to 11K Camp (or our 4th camp), location: N63.07441 W151.14500 at 3,363 m. This is our first and the easiest milestone!

At camp 3


Ready to leave camp 3


Kahiltna Pass


Feeling good


Stopping for a chat with climbing team going home. No summit - stuck in bad weather at 11K camp


Arriving at 11K camp





Making up internal kitchen area


That's midnight - it is never dark on Denali this time of year



2010 (12 years ago) Dreadnought Peak, BC
















2021 (Last Year)
Saint Marks Summit















 楼主| 发表于 2022-5-17 03:50:40 | 显示全部楼层

Denali Expedition, day 6/23 Moved cache to Windy Corner. Meanwhile weather tu...

Denali Expedition, day 6/23
Moved cache to below Windy Corner. Meanwhile weather turned bad - whiteout and wind, so we didn't dare to cross the traverse (which was a very wise decision), cached in the rocks. Staying at 11K camp.

Happy with current blood oxygen level


Our tent at 11K camp


Motorcycle Hill looks easy (but it is not). The mountain at the back is not Denali yet, it is "just" West Buttress.


Ready to move cache





Let's go!



We just reached the top of Motorcycle Hill not before Vera partially (to waist) dropping into a small crevasse. West Buttress is seen right at the back and Squirrel Hill rises on the right. We somehow underestimated the Squirrel Hill, even though our guide book clearly recommended "protect it when icy". A year later, at home I read that a climber lost footing and fell to his death on this hill - although the hill looks "easy", especially after topping Motorcycle Hill, the consequences of a slip could be very bad - the drop seen on the left is huge.


Whiteout



Finally, see the camp


Back at the 11K camp






 楼主| 发表于 2022-5-18 03:40:45 | 显示全部楼层

On This Day, May-18

2019 Denali Expedition, day 7/23 (already one week on the mountain!)

Moving to 14K camp at 4,346 m

Packing our camp at 11K


Weather looking good


Leaving behind stuff (snowshoes etc.) and one expedition sled. Even though it is so obvious, this will take some efforts to locate when we come back - all surroundings will change.


Ready to go!


At the "Polo Field" we met two young Canadians from Alberta going home - no summit (one got altitude sickness)


Arriving at 14K camp. Making our home for the next 10 (!) days.



Our neighbours.


This photo was taken at midnight. It is never dark on Denali this time of year. That's why nobody carries headlamps here.

 楼主| 发表于 2022-5-19 04:07:08 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, May-19

2003 (19 years ago) Golden, BC

Who still remembers these gas prices?


2004 (18 years ago) Nanjing, China






2014 Alpine Practice



2019 Denali Expedition, day 8/23, our tent at 14K camp (4,295m). Rest day - recovering from yesterday's horrific close call on Windy Corner.










-20C daytime..and we only half way up



 楼主| 发表于 2022-5-20 02:54:12 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, May-20

2014 (8 years ago) BCMC Trail (65min) + Thunderbird Ridge


2015 (7 years ago) Practice Alpine Rock YDS 5.4 at Murrin




2017 (5 years ago) Alpine Practice: Climbing Steep Snow at Pump Peak (photo by Gloria)


2018 (4 years ago) Mount Baker trip, Day 1 (photos by Vera)





2019 (3 years ago)
Denali Expedition, day 9/23
Retreived cache from below Windy Corner - carried it twice in the backpacks. Very strong wind.
17K camp to summit temperature: -35°C
From Denali Dispatches: "..Windy Corner still in challenging shape -- icy and exposed. Lots of crevasse falls and self-rescue at 13,200 feet.  ..Patrol #1 was the only team at high camp yesterday, and in light of a poor weather forecast, they descended to 14 camp today in snow and wind.  No teams (NPS or otherwise) are currently above 14,200 feet."





2020
Hiking Elk Mountain + Mount Thurston





 楼主| 发表于 2022-5-27 06:32:11 | 显示全部楼层
2019 14K camp Denali Expedition, day 16/23
Our "common" birthday. The average age of two of us was exactly 55 years old on this day.

We are ready to move to the the high camp tomorrow. The stuff on the sled is sealed, will stay here until we come back.


Socialising with American climbers. No summit - severe hands frostbite. Will be evacuated out tomorrow.


The storm is over. Tomorrow is a BIG day: moving to 17K camp at 5,220m.


 楼主| 发表于 2022-5-27 06:32:11 | 显示全部楼层
2019 14K camp Denali Expedition, day 16/23
Our "common" birthday. The average age of two of us was exactly 55 years old on this day.

We are ready to move to the the high camp tomorrow. The stuff on the sled is sealed, will stay here until we come back.


Socialising with American climbers. No summit - severe hands frostbite. Will be evacuated out tomorrow.


The storm is over. Tomorrow is a BIG day: moving to 17K camp at 5,220m.


 楼主| 发表于 2022-5-28 08:18:29 | 显示全部楼层
2011 (11 years ago) China




2019 (3 years ago) Denali Expedition, day 17/23

A Big day! Moved camp to 17K camp at 5,200 m. Our 6th camp so far. Spent first  (and very thirsty) night without stove, drinking water or food.

At 14K camp. Temperature -19.8° C, wind: 0 km/h


Ready to go




Fixed ropes section


Headwall. A bit icy, no?


Exit at 16K ridge




On the 16K ridge, altitude 5,000m, with 50lb backpack.







That's 17K camp at 5,220m. Here the air has only 50% of oxygen compared to sea level. Cutting platform for our tent.


Tent is ready. It will be a long night: no stove, not much water, or food until tomorrow.


Autobahn is a traverse clearly visible in this photo, going from base at the bottom right to the Denali Pass at 18,200 feet (5,547 m), seen as a V-shape feature at the upper left. Although looking rather friendly, and despite being equipped with fixed protection, this section has been the scene of more fatalities on Denali than any other part of the mountain. The legend goes that the name Autobahn implies that a body can gain any arbitrary speed on the way down would it slip unprotected. One of the most recent accidents happened on May-24 2021 when a member of BCMC expedition was critically injured, falling on descent, unroped.


发表于 2022-5-29 06:10:06 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, May-29

2011 (11 years ago) Hiking Stawamus Chief







 楼主| 发表于 2022-5-29 06:13:12 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, May-29

2019 (3 years ago) 17K camp, Denali Expedition, day 18/23

I was really concerned that our thirsty first night at 5,220 m 17K camp may trigger AMS or even worse (e.g. HAPE or HACE). This is to addition that I lost some water from my system having diarrhea bout on 16K ridge. Vera refused all my offers to share remaining water mixed with snow.

In the morning, after sunrise, we packed our stove and went down. Luckily the weather was good  - a bit windy a bit cold, but climbable. We descended 16K ridge to the top of fixed lines in 1.5 hours, got our cache and melted snow. We also cooked Mountain House.

After relaxing, we went back up to camp. Some guided team followed us and then passed ahead. I thought they were a bit too fast after climbing fixed lines. Their plan was to move cache to 17K, but after they reached Washburn thumb, they changed their mind. I feel that the speed burnt them out.

Back at 17K camp, hydrated and rested, at 20:00 p.m. we listened to the weather forecast, which didn't look too good - snow was coming. So we had to choose either to wait it over or else.

Vera of course suggested "or else" - to climb Denali right away (what else can you expect from her?!) and I as always took conservative position. Not to mention that we never start climbing before sunrise, that's our style. I listened to Vera: "if we wait, our food and fuel may run out, and then we need to go down, and then it will be very difficult to get back to 17K, we already know how difficult it is". That made sense!

Our neighbours from next tent, young couple from Anchorage, came back at 21:00 after successfully summiting. Vera went to ask for beta which was: "Put on all your available clothes, it's very cold up there. Take all carabiners - some of the fixed pros on Autobahn are missing them. One stretch is 50 meters." That was a very useful beta indeed!

We packed out climbing gear. Vera would carry only light day backpack with essentials and two 1L thermoses. I would carry expedition pack with essentials, spade shovel and tarp for emergency bivy. We will take 30m 8mm rope and one straight ice axe each. The news that one stretch was 50m made us nervous - our 30m would be not enough to protect it, and we knew that Autobahn had its own history of serious accidents - its name comes form German  "highway with no speed limit", meaning that if you slip and fall on the traverse you may gain any arbitrary speed.

We set our alarm to 02:30 a.m. and went to bed. Tomorrow can be THE day! Exciting!


From 16K ridge, 14K camp can be seen below




A bit steeper and exposed here


See someone's tent on the ridge.


Happy at 5,000m. Why not!?








Another set of fixed ropes below Washburn thumb.


17K camp at 5,220 meter elevation. Autobahn in its entirety is seen ending with Denali Pass at the top.


See the climbers descending Autobahn (the section that claims most fatalities on Denali).


Some extra footage








 楼主| 发表于 2022-5-30 04:08:42 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, May-30

2019 (3 years ago) Summit Denali, Alaska
I woke up at 02:00 a.m. Vera already eyes wide open, waiting for me. It was quiet outside and the skies were clear. Digital thermometer measured snow temperature -19.7°C.

After melting snow and eating we dressed up and left the 17K camp at 04:45 a.m. Although we trained for the Autobahn traverse on Mt. Hood believing it was twice harder than the Autobahn, reality was precisely opposite: Autobahn turned out to be twice harder than what we expected. Hard snow, no self-belay possible, ice-axe is only good for balance. We didn't have extra ice tool, only one straight axe each. So when that 50m unprotected stretch did come, we both realized that one slip of any of us will end it all. It was only 20 meters of unprotected traverse, but we got enough adrenaline pumping!

Autobahn followed by Denali pass, then Zebra rocks, followed by Football field. Finally, Pig Hill came - real challenge left for the very end, 300m up to the ridge.  This got us a bit slower.

Two guides passed by, each with one client. One pair was very fast - I didn't see ropes, axes or big packs.  The other pair was slower. When we finally got on the summit ridge, the forecasted weather front started moving in - it was now a whiteout. The first pair guide-client was already descending, and the second pair was about to start summit ridge. Then we heard one guide saying to another: "..if you don't see us on the ridge by 6 p.m. then...". What "then" meant he didn't bother to explain, it was obvious. It was also obvious to us that we'd better hurry before the weather gets worse.

Now it was 100% milk. When my ice axe didn't meet the surface, I looked to the right, and realized we were walking on the edge. Fixed pros came handy.  Checking GPS - another 30 meters..10..and.. WE ARE ON THE SUMMIT OF DENALI!! It was exactly 15:00 p.m.

We were the only two people there. Wind was already blowing, so we only took one selfie and a couple of single hero shots with the summit mark. Also sent an InReach "On the summit" message. No time for our trademark - "California Climber's Salute" really. We must go down.

In a whiteout I lost our track on the ridge and dropped down too soon, where I tried to place an ice screw, when I saw a climber walking above me towards the summit. That was the track we just lost, luckily it cost me only a few meters down. So we reached the Pig Hill exit and saw another climber waiting for his partner to come up. We stopped for a drink, and learned that the guy was from BC, and from the BCMC club, which we used to be members of for many years. The world is small. His companion came up, no gloves. Why? "To keep things in balance" - strange answer.

At the foot of Pig Hill yet another team of three. Italians. They just finished climbing the route "Orient Express". "Do you have any water? Our stove is broken" - one of them produced MSR Whisperlite with a broken hose. Vera got our two thermoses and offered them all the remaining water we got - not much, one cup really, they mixed it with snow and shared. Three big guys, one shared cup of melted snow - I knew how terribly dry and thirsty it would feel, being that thirsty myself just one day ago.

The wind was blowing hard. When we passed Zebra rocks, a large commercial team was on the way up. I knew that the guides just took them for a walk - a storm was building up and the day was winding down. No way to reach the summit. Still, better than nothing. At least they made it through Autobahn.

On Denali pass the wind was pretty strong, and Vera later said to me that she was sure we were going to spend the night just there in an emergency snow pit.

However, descending the Autobahn was still doable, we saw all the markers and pros and even passed the 50m section without too much worry, protecting it with an ice axe.

The lower part of the Autobahn was not protected, but still steep enough to get hurt. I already saw the end of it, and the tents of the 17K camp when I heard a sound like seagulls make when flying around. "Scree-e-e-e". I thought it was rather strange and even looked up in the sky trying to see those strange birds - found no birds up there of course, and then looked back. It was Vera! She slipped and fell, now stopped in perfect self-arrest on her stomach, not moving. Wow! Would it be a bit more slippery, like in the Shasta accident, we would fall both. Just at the end of the climb, just as what the book said - many accidents happen on Autobahn on the way down and we could have added yet one of those.

Arrived at the tent, took off crampons. It was 21:00 p.m. We did Denali! - the thought made our blood boil. Nothing, absolutely nothing else mattered. We had our tent, enough fuel to melt snow, a lot of food and warm sleeping bags. And no more up, tomorrow we go home!


Ready!


Approaching Denali Pass


With Foraker at the back.


Approaching Zebra rocks




On Denali Pass




Zebra Rocks


Final steps




Official marker - Denali summit!!!


Summit photos








Back to Denali Pass


Autobahn








We are back!



Some footage





 楼主| 发表于 2022-5-31 01:51:13 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, May-31

2014 (8 years ago) Alpine 101 Training











2017 (5 years ago) BCMC Trail

 楼主| 发表于 2022-5-31 07:31:07 | 显示全部楼层
2022.05.31 Fishing seson begins




 楼主| 发表于 2022-6-1 09:40:43 | 显示全部楼层
2022.06.01





 楼主| 发表于 2022-6-1 10:21:18 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, Jun-1

2014 (8 years ago) Alpine 101 at Cerise Creek




















2018 (4 years ago) Mt. Shasta - Day 1 (from Vera's archives)









 楼主| 发表于 2022-6-2 08:29:51 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, June-2

2018 (4 years ago) At the summit of Mount Shasta (from Vera's archive)




 楼主| 发表于 2022-6-2 08:32:29 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, Jun-2

2019 (3 years ago) Leaving our last camp on Denali at 14K. Denali Expedition, day 22/23
Our last full day on Denali.

Left 14K camp at 14:00 p.m. Walked through the Denali "night" straight to the Base Camp, arriving at 05:00 a.m. Hard good snow, used crampons all the way (16km, 2,200m down). Good calm weather. Relatively easy and enjoyable walk, except Heartbreak Hill, where it was a bit slow. We liked travel at "night" - no brutal sun on lower glacier. Vera had only one pole, as her another one was in use to fix the tent - a bit uncomfortable to walk, especially with crampons - and it was a 16km walk!

Making our last breakfast on Denali



Our home for 22 days


California Climbers' Salute at 14K camp


Ready to go


First creavasse punch


A bit deeper crevasse sink at Squirrel Hill


11K camp which we left 15 days ago looked different


We spent some time to locate our cache


Now all good to go, we finally can relax: we are done with nervous stuff like Windy Corner and Squarrell Hill


Pulling two loaded expedition sleds was not a big deal - it is all downhill, besides it is a lot easier to control.


Another cache


Once I got it into the rhythm of things, I was able to just walk and take in the view. The slack in my rope was okay, I was moving, I was breathing, my hands were warm, and I was walking the goddamn Kahiltna Glacier. I teared up more than once at the immensity of it, or the relief of being there; you can’t earn the right to such beauty. It is beyond any of us, a gift we can never repay. It’s humbling, awe inspiring and, yep, I was totally crying. Don’t tell anyone. I was just grateful to be there.

- from blog Nowhere Near Denali – June 2018


Approaching Ski Hill - the last one down




This shot was made at midnight - it is never dark on Denali this time of year







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