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 楼主| 发表于 2024-5-7 05:22:21 | 显示全部楼层

On This Day, May-7

2018 (6 years ago)



2019 (5 years ago) At the border BC - Yukon, enroute to Alaska. Denali expedition 2019.









 楼主| 发表于 2024-5-8 06:13:20 | 显示全部楼层

On This Day, May-8

 2010 (14 years ago) Mamquam

 

 


View Larger Map

  


2019 (5 years ago) Pioneer Motel, Palmer, AK. Expedition Denali-2019.  

Vera didn't waste time on the road from Vancouver (4 days). These will be very useful on the mountain.

 

 

 

 

Fun Fact: The West Buttress route starts at the Kahiltna Glacier and ascends the southwest side of Denali.

 楼主| 发表于 2024-5-9 04:23:40 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, May-9

2017 (7 years ago) Training at The Papoose


2019 (5 years ago) Denali-2019 expedition.
Talkeetna Air Taxi - checking 264 lb of our expedition gear.


Mandatory orientation in ranger's office and the climbing permit.




Talkeetna ranger's office


2020 (4 years ago) Mount Ford


 楼主| 发表于 2024-5-10 15:26:29 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, May-10

2019 (5 years ago) Denali Expedtion.
Trying to fly to the base camp, but bad weather on the glacier means it's a no-go.
Stickers for food caches.


Talkeetna Airport terminal.


Our plane, just for two passengers.


On board, shortly before the cancellation.


rying to fly to the base camp, but bad weather on the glacier means it's a no-go.

Back to Talkeetna


https://youtu.be/AlDCAmTvZ30
















 楼主| 发表于 2024-5-11 02:47:00 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, May-11

2019 (5 years ago) Waiting for the weather, Talkeetna, Alaska

The best guide book on the standard route. I wish we had studied it better than we did.
'



Casually adjusting our cargo


In the dorm








 楼主| 发表于 7 天前 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, May-12

2019 (5 years ago) Denali Expedition, day 1/23

The day has come! After two years of hard training and research, we are finally flying to the Base camp on Denali.










At the Base Camp. Unloading our gear (246lb)


Digging up  our first emergency cache.


Leaving the Base Camp


Every next leg of the expedition will be harder than the previous, in geometrical progression.







 楼主| 发表于 6 天前 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, May-13

2019 (5 years ago) Denali Expedition, day 2/23

Our very first camp. Kahiltna Glacier. N63.02578 W151.18675 at 2,308m







"Ski Hill" - moving camp to 2,866m



 楼主| 发表于 4 天前 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, May 15

2019 (5 years ago) Denali Expedition, day 4/23

Well-deserved rest day at Camp 3. Summits so far: 0. Summit temperatures: below -30°C.


Climbing team returning home. No summit: "..it was cold, real cold.."




Inside tent


The Alaskan view from Kahiltna Glacier


 楼主| 发表于 前天 07:58 | 显示全部楼层

On This Day, May-17

2019 (5 years ago) Denali Expedition, day 6/23
Moved the cache to below Windy Corner. Meanwhile, the weather turned bad with a whiteout and strong winds, so we didn't dare to cross the traverse (which was a very wise decision) and cached in the rocks. We are staying at the 11K camp.

Happy with current blood oxygen level


Our tent at 11K camp


Motorcycle Hill looks easy (but it is not). The mountain at the back is not Denali yet, it is "just" West Buttress.


Ready to move cache





Let's go!



We just reached the top of Motorcycle Hill, but not before Vera partially dropped into a small crevasse up to her waist. The West Buttress is visible in the distance, and Squirrel Hill rises on the right. We somehow underestimated Squirrel Hill, even though our guidebook clearly recommended 'protect it when icy.' A year later, at home, I read that a climber had lost their footing and fallen to their death on this hill. Although the hill looks 'easy,' especially after topping Motorcycle Hill, the consequences of a slip could be very severe, as the drop on the left is huge.


Whiteout



Finally, see the camp


Back at the 11K camp






 楼主| 发表于 昨天 05:56 | 显示全部楼层

On This Day, May-18

2019 (5 years ago) Denali Expedition, day 7/23 (already one week on the mountain!)

Moving to 14K camp at 4,346 m

Packing our camp at 11K


Weather looking good


Leaving behind stuff (snowshoes etc.) and one expedition sled. Even though it is so obvious, this will take some efforts to locate when we come back - all surroundings will change.


Ready to go!


At the "Polo Field" we met two young Canadians from Alberta going home - no summit (one got altitude sickness)


Arriving at 14K camp. Making our home for the next 10 (!) days.



Our neighbours.


This photo was taken at midnight. It is never dark on Denali this time of year. That's why nobody carries headlamps here.

 楼主| 发表于 10 小时前 | 显示全部楼层

On this day, May-19

2003 (21 years ago) Golden, BC

Who still remembers these gas prices?


2004 (20 years ago) Nanjing, China






2014 (10 years ago) Alpine Practice



2019 (5 years ago) Denali Expedition, day 8/23, our tent at 14K camp (4,295m). Rest day - recovering from yesterday's horrific close call on Windy Corner.










-20C daytime..and we only half way up



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