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The Rudiments of Alpine

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 楼主| 发表于 2016-4-12 08:00:14 | 显示全部楼层
Alpine Tip #38 What to do and not to do in a fall on low-angle snow slopes.

Low angle (<30 degrees) snow slopes can and do kill people. Most so because such slopes don't "look dangerous" enough, an ice axe and a helmet are rarely used. However, a tripping on a crampon strap could become a fall which could turn into an uncontrolled acceleration. The worst case is flipping when downclimbing, face forward. In such an event it is unlikely one can do much except bracing himself and hope to be lucky.

Yet, try not to scream, instead keep your mouth shut making an air in your lungs locked and work as an airbag, or your ribs might get broken from impact. Duck your head so that it is your backpack that takes all the beating. Using elbows, try hard to bring your body into facing the slope, head-up position - as in a classic self-arrest with an ice-axe (which you don't have at the moment). Keep your boots (especially with crampons) in the air, out of touch with the snow, or you may be hurled into the air (or have your legs broken) from crampons catching the surface.

Immediately after your body is in proper self-arrest position, act fast, stretch your arms keeping you from rolling to sides and use fingers to stop or at least to slow down body velocity. The entire fall might be short (yet dramatic) in "reality" for outsiders, but for you it may seem rather slow, so that you may  be quite able to analyze current situation in its entirety, can regroup and combined with luck, avoid a rather serious outcome. 8)

PHOTO: Mt. Rainier NP, a typical 30° slope (measured with instrument). When icy it can kill. A glissade  path, which you can see on the right, invites beginners to test their luck (or bad luck).



P.S. As a sad example, a BCMC member and a trip co-organizer, was fatally injured on a similar slope on Mt.Rainier in 2013.
 楼主| 发表于 2016-4-21 07:23:51 | 显示全部楼层

What equipment?

Alpine Tip #39 What equipment?

Before investing in that rather expensive but cool-looking shiny piece of alpine gear, one should decide if it is worth the price. Here is how.

The only purpose of any mountaineering equipment is to deal with a fall. If it doesn't address a fall in some way, it is not mountaineering gear.

Two major categories of gear are: 1) preventing the fall 2) dealing with the fall.

Main principle in alpine: the less is always better. A piece should be as universal as possible. For example, why to bring a daisy chain when you can do without it? Texas prusik could be used only in vertical and a very long rope climb (extremely rare situation) - it is bulky and heavy, and there is no other use - when a leg prusik will be just fine?

So before picking up a piece in the store and rushing to the check-out counter, mentally review:

- Is this piece going to address a fall and in what manner? Do I really need it,  as my other gear might already do what it does?

Examples:
1. Foot wear - prevents a fall. Good investment. Training is strongly advised ( Alpine Walk ).
2. Ice ax - prevents a fall. Deals with a fall. Super universal piece, must have. Training required - improper use will hurt.
3. Helmet - doesn't prevent a fall, but deals with it, to a degree. Often, wearing a helmet determines the difference: will you end up in a wheelchair for life or even worse.
4. Crampons - prevent a fall. Dangerous in a fall. Training required - improper use will hurt.
5. Rope - deals with a fall, sometimes is used to prevent it. Training required - improper use will hurt.
6. Sunglasses - makes one looking cool, but is not alpine gear.

No piece of equipment can reduce the risk of falling to zero.  It is up to you to decide how much you should have - it all depends on your risk tolerance: some people want less, some people need more. As long as you are risk-tolerance-compatible with your climbing partner that is ( see Tip 36 ).

 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-3 09:33:30 | 显示全部楼层
Accident: Injured man left alone - Wedge Glacier - 2008.08

Injured man left alone rescued at night on Wedge Glacier
By Jesse Ferreras

A military helicopter had to be flown in to Whistler Monday night after the RCMP received a distress call regarding a hiker who injured his leg on Wedge Glacier.

Whistler RCMP were notified by SPOT (Satellite Personal Tracker) GPS Distress Systems in Texas at about 8:40 p.m. that a distress beacon signal was coming from a location about six kilometres east of Whistler. The nature of a distress cannot be provided by the SPOT system, and thus RCMP were not aware of the severity of the emergency.

Shortly after, a 9-1-1 operator received a call asking for helicopter rescue for a member of a four-man climbing party who broke his leg at 8,200 feet on the Wedge Glacier.

Whistler Search and Rescue was notified thereafter and put in contact with the caller, who was not the injured person. The caller said the injured hiker was fine, both conscious and breathing, except for a possible fracture to a lower leg.

At this point it was 9:10 p.m., too late for a helicopter to fly. The caller was instructed to go back to the injured man and provide care and guidance to a rescue party in the morning. The caller agreed and said he would send the other two fit members of their party to the Wedge Hut campsite to get clothes and sleeping bags for the injured climber.

Whistler SAR received another call at midnight saying that the situation had worsened for the injured climber — the caller said he was exhausted, cold and could not make it back to the injured climber. He also worried the injured man might die if a helicopter didn’t reach him immediately.

Whistler SAR relayed the information to the Rescue Co-ordination Centre in Victoria and requested assistance from 442 Squadron — Air/Sea Rescue out of CFB Comox on Vancouver Island. Land-based search and rescue is not generally the squadron’s responsibility, but it is the only unit with night-flying capability.

Brad Sills with Whistler SAR said it “doesn’t take a rocket scientist” to figure out the dangers of night flying in the Coast Mountains.

“Typically (they’re) flying with night vision goggles, which enhances different levels of light,” he told Pique . “ It’s not like they’re seeing with the naked eye, they’re interpreting things through digital technology.

“ Just the fact that you’re relying on technology heightens the danger.”

It’s because of these dangers that night rescues are very rare.

After some delays due to the squadron’s call priority status, it was confirmed 442 Squadron could carry out the rescue but first needed to reconfigure the aircraft, burn off fuel and remove much of their rescue kit in order to carry out a rescue at 8,200 feet.

A large EH 101 Cormorant rescue helicopter landed at Whistler Municipal Heliport at 4:35 a.m. and, with the help of Whistler SAR and the RCMP, the aircraft was prepared for the rescue.

Still in darkness, the chopper was then flown up Rethel Creek to the scene using night vision equipment. The rescue crew was confused to find another climbing party of four ascending the glacier.

The rescue crew were later shocked to discover a lone person, the injured climber, lying on the glacier at a higher elevation. The rescue crew was able to access, stabilize and transport the injured hiker inside the helicopter.

The rest of his climbing party had to be woken from a “deep sleep” at Wedgemont Hut, according to Sills. Whistler SAR was surprised that the injured person would be left alone after a seemingly urgent request for help.

According to an e-mail from Sills, the threesome felt there was no point in them all being cold when a helicopter would pick them up in the morning.

However, when asked in an interview why the climber was left alone on the glacier, Sills said, “We don’t speculate on why people do things.”

Sills said that Whistler SAR is “very concerned” about the use of SPOT technology as people’s only rescue plan while doing outdoor activity.

He added that relying on the technology, which is available in stores such as Mountain Equipment Co-op, is a flawed concept because it merely indicates the location where an emergency is taking place.

“All they do is submit a lat and longitude, so all we get is a location of a distress call but no details,” Sills said. “I don’t think it’s a well thought through technology because it doesn’t give the nature of the emergency.”

He said in his e-mail that outdoor recreationalists need to have adequate knowledge and skill sets for the areas they travel in and should know what to do if rescue crews don’t show up.

http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com ... Content?oid=2161907

Prevention
16: Choose climbing partners carefully
29: Base Alpine Emergency Set
34: How to pick a partner
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-3 19:31:42 | 显示全部楼层
Accident: Mount Bell - 2008.08

We were scrambling up the avalanche path on the west side of O'Brien Lake to gain the NE ridge. We went up some fourth and easy fifth class rockbands and he was to the left and ahead, looking for a way up another rockband. A foothold ledge broke away and stranded him 10 m up the band. In the process of trying to get him out of this position, he fell 10 m and hit his head and then rag doll tumbled and rolled 100 m down scree and small rock steps.

I climbed down to him, did first aid, activated an older ACR Terrafix PLB and then ran down to Taylor lake. I borrowed a cellphone from a tourist and arranged a heli evacuation.
He is still unconscious in intensive care but a full recovery is possible.

Bottom line is we made some mistakes and had some bad luck. Avoid bad rock or always leave a large margin of error below your climbing ability. Slow down, climb carefully and think about the consequences and your responsibilities. Always wear your helmet.


http://www.explor8ion.com/sites/ ... 20Mount%20Bell.html

Prevention
8  Climb well below your actual climbing ability
14 Gear one level up
26 Stay away from Scrambling
31 Do not test your abilities in alpine.
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-3 20:18:50 | 显示全部楼层
Accident: Anniversary Glacier - 2015.10

A hiker that had been missing since early Saturday morning has been found dead near Pemberton, confirmed search and rescue personnel.

Vancouver man Michael Charles Low, 49, reportedly fell in a crevasse in steep, mountainous terrain on Anniversary Glacier, near Joffre Peak.

"At this point we don't know what happened," said Pemberton Search and Rescue manager Dave Steers. "All our guys are reporting (the area) to be extremely icy and slippery with lots of exposed ice."

Low was reported missing to Vancouver Police when he failed to meet friends for dinner Saturday and could not be reached by cell phone.

The experienced hiker had told friends he planned to overnight Friday at the Keith Flavelle hut near the headwaters of Cerise Creek before returning Saturday afternoon.

He was last seen early Saturday morning heading uphill from the cabin, according to Mounties.

Pemberton Search and Rescue (PSAR) was mobilized and began a comprehensive search at first light Sunday morning. Whistler Search and Rescue also assisted in the alpine search.

The Cerise Creek trail is a relatively short hike through remote forest along the Duffey Lake Road. The Keith Flavelle hut is surrounded by forest and steep mountainous terrain that "can be challenging," said Steers.

The location where Low's body was found was close to the site of another tragic incident from January where three hikers were killed after falling from a central couloir on Joffre Peak.


http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com ... Content?oid=2675573

Prevention
* Never hike alone
* Do not step on any glacier without proper equipment (= unroped) and formal training in Glacier Travel and Rescue Response.
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-4 05:52:01 | 显示全部楼层
Accident:  Hanes Valley - 2014.12

The body of Liang Jin has been found yesterday in North Vancouver. (Vancouver Police)
Liang Jin's body was found by his family in the Hanes Valley in North Vancouver's Lynn Headwaters Regional Park, authorities say. The 21­year­old Vancouver hiker was reported missing when he had not returned from a hike he apparently went on New Year's Eve. Massive search efforts on the North Shore mountains at the time were unsuccessful and were eventually called off.

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/br ... mountains-1.2962494

Prvention
* Never hike alone
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-5 03:41:52 | 显示全部楼层
Accident: Sky Pilot Mountain - 2014.07

..A man died near Squamish over the weekend in the backcountry after accessing difficult terrain via the Sea to Sky Gondola ..The BC Coroners Service said Hosford and two friends took the gondola up on the morning of Saturday, July 5. They hiked to Sky Pilot Mountain with the aim of "scrambling" to the summit of the 2,025-metre peak (6,645-foot), the highest in the coast range south of Garibaldi. The trio made the peak, but the weather turned and the descent became extremely slippery.

"He was in technical mountaineering terrain," said Howe, describing the area above the treeline with snowfields, rock pitches and exposed terrain...

Hosford slipped while going down a snow chute and fell a "considerable distance." He died at the scene.

http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com ... Content?oid=2562414

Prevention
* Stay away from Scrambling
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-5 10:38:53 | 显示全部楼层
Accident: Brunswick Mountain

The individual slipped on a snow patch and slid into rocks. The victim sustained several serious injuries: a collapsed lung, 6 broken ribs and a fractured lumbar vertebrae. None of the party had an ice axe, which may have prevented this accident. It is important to remember that even routes often considered "simple hikes" can invovle the risk of injury. Don't underestimate any mountain route.

Full description here.

Prevention
Even low-angle snow slopes can kill. Be prepared to deal with an innocent slip that can turn in uncontrolled acceleration. Carry an ice axe and know how to use it.
发表于 2016-5-5 13:05:46 | 显示全部楼层
谢谢潘博士分享,非常喜欢读事故报告,也从你和Vera分享的经验中学到很多,受益非浅!
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-5 14:01:41 | 显示全部楼层
Accident: West Lion - 2009.08

A French hiker is lucky to be alive after falling more than 45 metres down a popular North Shore mountain. The climber was with two friends hiking the west peak of the Lions around 10:00 a.m. Wednesday when he tumbled from the summit.

Full description here.

Prevention
Stay away from scrambling.
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-5 17:19:10 | 显示全部楼层
Accident: Mount Harvey - 2008.01

A Vancouver man has died after a rescue on Mount Harvey..

...The 44-year-old, an experienced climber, was hiking with a friend around the base of the mountain just northwest of North Vancouver on Jan. 18 when he decided to begin climbing on his own, said Keith Campden of Lions Bay Search and Rescue...

The climber was found at about midnight. He was hypothermic and suffering from several injuries, including a concussion. Rescuers suspect he had fallen or slid down a snow slope.

He was carried down from the mountain on a stretcher and taken to hospital, where he died.


Full description here.

Prevention
Habit #2 of the EIGHT SAFETY HABITS OF A PERFECT HIKER - "..He doesn't separate from the group..."
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-5 17:43:48 | 显示全部楼层
Accident: Goat Mountain - 2015.10

..A fallen hiker was rescued from deep in the backcountry of Vancouver's North Shore mountains yesterday after falling nearly five metres and suffering spinal injuries and serious trauma to her face and neck...

Full description here.

Prevention
Stay away from Scrambling. Five meters fall is enough to end up in a wheel chair for life (or worse).
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-5 18:56:54 | 显示全部楼层
Accident: Crown Mountain - 2013.11

Missing British hiker - Tom Billings.

..Based on their understanding of his movements and time and distance travelled, searchers now believe Mr. Billings ran into trouble near the base of Crown Mountain around nightfall...

“We feel it’s a (body) recovery operation,” Mr. Jones said. Most likely, what he’s done – why we can’t see him from the air and why we haven’t been able to find him – is that he’s under a log or under a rock somewhere.”

The body has never been found.

Full description here.
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/helpfindtom/

Prevention
Never hike alone.
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-6 05:08:14 | 显示全部楼层
Accident: Hollyburn Mountain - 2013.01

..A backcountry snowshoer is in hospital in serious condition after falling off a cliff on Hollyburn Mountain last night.

North Shore Rescue had to put their own lives at risk to get to him, but managed to rescue him very early this morning...“We tracked down where he fell into the gully, it was a 100-foot vertical rappel we had to make in order to get to him, that’s how far he fell.”

Full  description here.

Prevention
Even on family-type outings like Hollyburn it is quite possible to get into major trouble. Do not wander into technical terrain. Stay on the official established trail.
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-6 06:03:01 | 显示全部楼层
Accident: Mount Seymour - 2014.11

..A 61-year-old hiker has suffered serious injuries after falling from a peak in the North Shore Mountains...


Full description here.

Prevention
Stay away from the edges.
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-6 06:43:20 | 显示全部楼层

NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS

- Brunswick Mountain - Slide on snow into rocks - TRAUMA
2006.09 West Lion - Unprotected fall on rock - FATAL
2008.01 Mount Harvey - Missing snowboarder - FATAL
2016.03 Lynn Creek - Falling into the water - FATAL
2016.05 Norvan Falls - Falling into the water - FATAL
2016.07 Grouse Grind - Medical - FATAL
2016.09 Cypress Mountain - Missing hiker - FATAL
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-6 07:34:16 | 显示全部楼层
Accident: Lynn Creek - 2016.03

...Cole Marsh, 17, was at the popular park Monday afternoon when he reportedly climbed over the safety fences and jumped off a cliff near the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge.

He was able to hang on to the rocks for about 30 minutes while rescuers made their way to him but he let go and was swept into the water. Rescuers have been at the scene daily since then but water levels have been too high to safely recover Marsh's body...


Full description here.

Prevention
Safety fences are put for a reason. Stay away.

More: NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-6 08:50:36 | 显示全部楼层
Accident: Cypress Mountain - 2012.05

..A middle-aged man is dead after a mountain biking accident in West Vancouver this afternoon....McRae is shocked and surprised by the death, adding the trail on which the rider is believed to have died –  Coiler – was not one of the more difficult ones...


Full description here.

Prevention
Easy terrain can kill too, if taken off-guard. Be careful.

More: NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-6 09:01:09 | 显示全部楼层
Accident: Mount Seymour - 2011.02

..A North Vancouver backcountry skier died Saturday after falling several hundred metres from a peak in Mount Seymour provincial park.
The 36-year-old was skiing with a companion on First Pump Peak some time before noon when he apparently lost control..


Full description here.

Prevention
Know you limits. Do not test your abilities in alpine.

More: NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS
 楼主| 发表于 2016-5-6 09:17:25 | 显示全部楼层
Accident: Lions Bay - 2010.09

..Saturday a hiker was long lined out of gully near Lions Bay by NSR after sustaining head injuries from falling into a gully. The rescue was a joint effort between NSR and Lions Bay SAR..


Full description here.

Prevention
If a fall will  have consequences, wearing a helmet is always a good idea.

More: NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS
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