The Rudiments of Alpine

有效防止落石以及非正常脱落姿态带来的头部伤害。头盔要端正佩戴才能护住前额后脑及侧面。出现落石千万不要仰头观望或以手抱头，无处可躲时让头盔发生作用。登山攀岩为什么要戴登山专用的头盔？在欧美出产的登山专用的头盔都必须通过欧洲联盟（CE)或/和UIAA的标准。在欧洲，欧洲联盟要求所有在市场上销售的头盔通过CE的标准测试。在美国，政府虽然没有相应的强制性规定，但由于市场的竞争和从法律上的考虑，以至事实上所有在美国销售的登山头盔都通过了CE或/和UIAA标准检验。

baike.baidu.com

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-7-3 06:55:51

Alpine Vocabulary

蝴蝶结 (alpine butterfly knot)

蝴蝶结用于在绳子中央形成一个固定的绳环。它可以系在绳索上，而无需使用绳子端部；当系绑很长的登山绳时，它很有用。蝴蝶结的打法非常容易检查，可以在任何方向受拉，带手套也可以打结。当需要固定的绳环时，通常会使用该结。

http://knots3d.com/

More: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=151825

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-8-17 11:34:19

Scrambling explained

1. Technically speaking, scrambling is an unprotected class 3 and class 4 rock climbing - "falls could easily be or may well be fatal". Grading explained here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yosemite_Decimal_System

2. Using the term scrambling instead of more specific class 3 and class 4 makes many people wrongly believe it is as safe as hiking and needs no special training. It also makes "scrambling books" sell better than "low-angle rock climbing" ones. As an example, a very popular "scrambling" book never mentions technical grading. On the other hand, The High Sierra book with hundreds of low-angle rock climbing routes never uses word "scrambling". If the route is graded class 4 - you will know you most likely will die if you let go your grip. But when a route is graded "a moderate scramble" - many will never think about "the unfortunate end" - after all, how can something marked as "moderate" kill you?

3. Always know the grading of your route. You need to have been trained for one class higher - climbing and downclimbing. For example - if your route is graded class 3, you'd better train yourself for class 4, if it is class 4 - you need to be confident in class 5.2. This is because if you get off the route (which is often the case), you will have to deal with more difficult technical situation. Also, if the weather changes from sunny to snow and hail, the grade will rise 1-2 levels up.

4. Before you climb that line, make sure you will be able to downclimb it.

5. Always come prepared for an emergency rappel.

6. Carry and be ready to protect critical moves - a rope, a helmet, a harness and a minimal set of chocks will make sure you will come home in one piece.

7. Never climb alone.

8. Never test your skills in alpine. Train in a safe environment (top-rope) and climb one-two levels down of your top-rope grade. ( Contrary to common sense, climbing gym is not the place to train for alpine rock. Squamish crags are. )

PHOTO: Practicing downlimbing 5.4 rock, alpine style (boots, not rock-climbing shoes) + 15lb backpack.

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-8-19 15:29:37

Accident: Grouse Grind - 2016.07

..A man died from a medical emergency while on the Grouse Grind on Wednesday night..

Complete Description here.

Prevention
* Know your limits. Avoid extremes.
* Keep your pace within 80% of your comfort level

More: NORTH SHORE MOUNTAINS - LIST OF MAJOR ACCIDENTS

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-8-20 05:46:18

Alpine Vocabulary

登山表 (alpine watch)

登山表有先进的第三代三重感应器技术，将方位、气压/温度、高度的精准测量变为可能。拥有全球六局电波接收功能确保了腕表的精准性，太阳能驱动系统的搭载使得手表的续航功能大大提升。它具有高辨识度的大表盘设计，精准显示测量数据，无论在何种情况下，便捷的操作、准确的显示，都可展现其卓越的实用性。

http://baike.baidu.com/

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-8-23 14:51:28

Learning from mistakes

..The search for missing hiker Gord Sagoo was suspended on Monday, after searchers exhausted every effort on Baby Munday Peak.

Sagoo went missing Sunday, Aug. 14 (2016), after breaking away from his hiking group on the mountain. The area is considered advanced climbing terrain, but Sagoo, 50, was an experienced outdoorsman and extremely fit...Sagoo separated from the group to explore some other peaks, and planned on meeting them before returning to the trailhead...he did not have the equipment required to spend an extended amount of time in the mountains alone...

More here and here: https://www.gofundme.com/2k63gdg

Prevention
1. Never hike alone.
2. Read #2 (EIGHT SAFETY HABITS OF A PERFECT HIKER):
"..He doesn't separate from the group. He is well within normal voice level distance at ALL times..."

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-8-26 15:49:32

Alpine Tip #40 Avoid indoor climbing gyms.

If climbing high mountains is your ultimate goal, then contrary to the "common sense" you should avoid the idea of training in  indoor climbing gyms. Do not think that the ability to climb 5.10 technical grade alone automatically makes one an alpine climber (it doesn't).

There are several reasons:

1. Indoor rock climbers use rock-climbing shoes. Alpinists  don't, they wear alpine boots.

2. Mountaineering boots combined with a ~30lb backpack shift center of gravity so much that skills obtained in the climbing gym don 't matter much.

3. Alpine rope work (take and pay) is entirely different, and those who learned top-rope belay instructions in the climbing gym will have to re-learn (painful, if not impossible).

4. Climbing gym is safe and alpine is not. People trained in climbing gym often get hurt in the alpine because of that - they didn't develop the habit of rigorously  inspecting safety before they begin climbing.

5. In climbing gym the safety is provided. In the alpine it has to be built from scratch. More people get hurt because this element has not been adopted (no need) in the climbing gym: there you will never hear about "fall factor", SERENE principle or ultimate backup.

6. In climbing gym every hold is solid - it is never going to detach or collapse. In alpine nothing could be taken for granted - thus the climber's movement mechanics is entirely different: when a gym climber can safely jump to the next hold, alpine climber must  follow certain protocol: lightly test the hold, then transfer 1/2 weight and only if it held, complete the transfer still be prepared for the crash.

7. Alpine rappel is different from rock climbing rappel (position of safety-prussik and a possibility of climbing back up on the same rope).

Advice: avoid climbing gym, start right away from the alpine. 8)

PHOTO: Aid climbing training session in Murrin Park, BC. "Up from the Bog" - 5.8 / A1 18m

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-8-28 06:01:50

Learning from mistakes

On February 20, 2016 at 1:05 PM I received a text message that said call me ASAP. This was a message from the wife of one of Nick’s close friends who he happened to be snowmobiling with. I called her and she said the words I prayed I would never hear, “the boys were in an avalanche”.

~ A New Unwedded Widow's Journey ~

Prevention

Nick and his friends had AST 1, they had beacons, they had shovels, they had Avi bags, they had all the things you are told to have, but IT’S NOT ENOUGH. Call them stupid for being in the area they were, sure, but I know those boys are not the only ones who have made that mistake. It was a mistake, and Nick paid the ultimate price.

Read entire blog: https://newnormal.me/

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-9-10 06:58:32

Alpine Vocabulary

高山探险 (alpine climbing)

高山探险（登山探险，也叫阿尔卑斯运动）

高山探险是登山运动的一个分支，它是以登上顶峰为主要目的的登山运动。

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-9-12 05:40:56

Learning from mistakes

If you want to live longer, DO NOT do this (even when everybody else does):

or this

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-10-2 05:09:23

Learning from mistakes

..Debbie Blair, 65, still missing (Sunday morning Oct-2 - 3 nights) in Cypress Mountain Resort area..

Debbie Blair was hiking on the mountain Thursday with friends when she became separated from her group. ..temperatures fell close to freezing on Friday night...there was also heavy rain early Saturday morning. .. Blair had no backpack, light, map or cell phone with her when she went off the track...she was not prepared to spend the night outdoors and had left her coat and food in the car... she is likely wearing a short-sleeved shirt...Blair had been travelling with a faster group of hikers but had hurt her knee so she went to find a slower group to continue the journey...assumed while looking for the other group, Blair hit a junction and went off trail...

http://vancouversun.com/

Prevention: EIGHT SAFETY HABITS OF A PERFECT HIKER

List of major accidents: North Shore

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-10-25 14:18:17

Learning from mistakes

It has been nearly a month since Debbie Blair disappeared while on a group hike on Cypress Mountain. Wilderness experts say they are worried that tragedies like this will happen again.

Ehrl’s hiking group is encountering an increasing number of new or inexperienced hikers on local trails, many of whom are unequipped for the elements. He fears North Shore Rescue, which has already logged 110 calls this year, will be faced with more tragedies.

Prevention:

Patrons are advised to stay with the group at all times and to not wander off independently

Don’t get separated from the group

More here: Friends remember missing Vancouver hiker Debbie Blair

List of major accidents: North Shore

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-11-15 07:36:25

Alpine Tip #41 Have a habit of marking the Trailhead coordinates.

Always mark coordinates of the trailhead, regardless of the trip's duration, your group's size and experience.

These days everyone carries a smart phone equipped with a GPS. Even if you despise learning, ask someone to explain you how to do such a basic operation and make it a habit - this skill may save you a lot of trouble (or even life).

PanShiBo · 发表于 2016-11-25 04:15:47

Alpine Winter Equipment: TOP 10: CHECKLIST

Winter Has Arrived to British Columbia! ARE YOU EXCITED? (WE ARE!) 8)

Alpine Winter Equipment: TOP 10 - CHECKLIST (we don't leave home without these):

1. Microspikes + Snowshoes: adequate both for ascending and descending steep snow
2. Balaclava + Gaiters (w pl. bags) + Gloves & Shells
3. Trekking Poles with wide baskets
4. Sunglasses (+ spare) + sunscreen
5. PLB + GPS + Cell phone + Headlamp
6. Snow shovel
7. Avalanche Transceiver
8. Tarp
9. Down & Fleece jackets + Wind & waterproof shell(s)
10. Foam pad

WE WISH YOU A HAPPY AND SAFE WINTER!!!

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The Rudiments of Alpine

Search suspended for hiker missing near Chilliwack

[分享]Alpine Winter Equipment: TOP 10: CHECKLIST