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发表于 2017-3-17 09:24:54 | 显示全部楼层
Perfect weather. Enjoy.  :aa51:
 楼主| 发表于 2017-3-17 10:55:31 | 显示全部楼层
WanchaiBoz
Perfect weather. Enjoy.  :aa51:


! 8)
 楼主| 发表于 2017-3-17 11:09:57 | 显示全部楼层
2017.03.14 Amerika Spring Break 2017 (contd.)

Day 3 Elephant Butte (West Fins route - YDS 5.4); Arches National Park, Utah

Elephant Butte is the highest point or peak in Arches National Park.

Climbing this route is an absolute blast if you like exploring. It is something much different from the average “climb up and climb back down” desert rock climb. The route weaves in and out of fins, has several short 5th class pitches, flowing different little slot canyons, much scrambling, a rappel on the ascent route, and an interesting finish.


The West Fins route. Class 5.


Our gear - we also brought pitons just in case.


Approaching the base


to be continued...

Summary: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=177167
发表于 2017-3-18 18:00:33 | 显示全部楼层
都是我喜欢的地方。明年还要去。
发表于 2017-3-19 06:46:51 | 显示全部楼层
2017.03.14 Amerika Spring Break 2017 (contd.)

Day 3 Elephant Butte (West Fins route - YDS 5.4); Arches National Park, Utah

Typacal dry spot canyon




 楼主| 发表于 2017-3-19 06:48:49 | 显示全部楼层
yin G
都是我喜欢的地方。明年还要去。


8)
 楼主| 发表于 2017-3-19 06:54:51 | 显示全部楼层
2017.03.14 Amerika Spring Break 2017 (contd.)

Day 3 Elephant Butte (West Fins route - YDS 5.4); Arches National Park, Utah

We climb West Fins route - it is one way only, meaning once you past 1st rappel you can't come back..





Here they call this "hoodoo" (we call them "spires")


Summary: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=177167
 楼主| 发表于 2017-3-20 06:35:46 | 显示全部楼层
2017.03.14 Amerika Spring Break 2017 (contd.)

Day 3 Elephant Butte (West Fins route - YDS 5.4); Arches National Park, Utah

You must rappel even before you get to the summit, which makes this route special.




Another dry slot canyon.


Once the rappel rope is taken down, it is not easy to return same way, you must keep going through the maze of slot canyons.




..to be continued..

Summary: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=177167
发表于 2017-3-20 11:16:45 | 显示全部楼层
2017.03.14 Amerika Spring Break 2017 (contd.)

Day 3 Elephant Butte (West Fins route - YDS 5.4); Arches National Park, Utah









Summary: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=177167
发表于 2017-3-20 11:58:18 | 显示全部楼层
2017.03.14 Amerika Spring Break 2017 (contd.)

Day 3 Elephant Butte (West Fins route - YDS 5.4); Arches National Park, Utah





Summary: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=177167
 楼主| 发表于 2017-3-20 13:50:31 | 显示全部楼层
2017.03.14 Amerika Spring Break 2017 (contd.)

Day 3 Elephant Butte - West Fins route (YDS 5.4); Arches National Park, Utah

Usually the most technical climbing is not recorded for obvious reasons: other things have higher priority. This was the case in this trip - while I was contemplating which way to take above that exposed slab, Vera went up "just take a look"..in no time she was above me climbing YDS 5.4 grade unprotected rock - without knowing, she just completed the crux of the route in the "regular" MEC hiking shoes! 8)





California Climbers' Salute at the top of Elephant Butte, the highest point in the Arches National Park, Utah.


Summary: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=177167
发表于 2017-3-20 14:45:13 | 显示全部楼层

[分享] Elephant Butte (1)

2017.03.14 Amerika Spring Break 2017 (contd.)

Day 3 Elephant Butte - West Fins route (YDS 5.4); Arches National Park, Utah

2017的春假开始了!12号周日的早晨过边境的时候,美国人问去哪里,我说去Utah的NP。去干什么?Spring break,旅行啊!You?Spring break?他这么反问着,心里肯定知道这只是我们找个理由旅行而已,笑笑便顺利放行,还不忘祝我们旅途愉快。看,这是一个多么好的开始!

一路开,开向充满阳光和蓝天的地方。穿过多云的WA,我们渐渐地摆脱了久缠着的阴霾。即便周围还见冰雪,但到处都在春光明媚里,所以它们成了大风景下的美丽的点缀。中途在一个Utah的Rest Area,顺手拿了份杂志,才学习了“The great circle"这个概念,看了中缝的地图,地理很差的我才知道我们要去的方向。好!把一个个有兴趣的地方圈出来,噢,原来第一个经过的是Arches NP!(本来这可不是第一个目标)谢谢这本内容极丰富的杂志,这样,Arches成了我们的第一站。

接下来的问题就是:Arches里有什么是我们感兴趣的?我赶快翻我之前打印出的research部分,找出了属于Arches的Elephant Butte,开始认真读。13号下午约4点,我们到了Arches,哦噢,非周末的日子因为修路的原因,仅仅0700-1900开放,也就是说,我们当天只有3小时的时间。那做些什么呢?博士可是这方面的行家,马上作出决定:取上地图等,drive around,然后check一下Elephant Butte. 啊哈,就是去踩点!

此时正是光线好的时候,以前来Arches的点点印象慢慢清晰起来。经过了Court House,看到了Balanced Rock,当然,右手边的sand  dunes也绝不会错过,不多时间,我们就根据GPS,来到了Elephant Butte的TH,不少攀岩的还挂在不同的石壁上,引来众多游客仰慕的目光。Elephant  Butte在哪里?不知道,我也认不出来,周围也没有一个牌子提它的名字。怎么办?我们换上boots,说那就去看一看吧,看看到底从哪里入手,心里可以稍微有点数。

直接走进满是耸立着的巨石的迷宫,依稀顺着沙地上的脚印,博士不时核对GPS来加以校正,我们来到了Elephant Butte的地盘。但是,从哪里上第一步,也是左看右看了好久,才摸索着走了进去。(我从Video上看到的沿着Ledges顺势向上的部分原来不是开头,难怪我怎么找也找不到!)

我们试探着,我是看着好玩,不像博士心里要装很多东西,所以他说的也都是专业的话。他在判断哪里是入、哪里是出,哪里可能会是rappel的地方。(有他烦这些就行了,这是最棒的partner!)

我们通过这一两个小时的实地勘察,收获良多:

1. 知道了入口的位置
2. 我们上到了plateau的部分,从这里开始,就是technical了(这样第二天就不再走弯路)
3. 看到了TR里提到的crux

因为博士是个从不打无把握之仗的人,所以对每一个细节都特别在意。好在Arches附近几英里远的Moab有麦当劳,我们踩点之后,七点前离开公园,继续上网找资料,此时再看TR,一切都开始鲜活起来,我们还找到了描绘很好的Topo map,再细细读,这下终于没有疑问了:没错,在去Summit之前,我们首先要Rappel!

多么刺激的事情!我想,博士和我一样,对第二天充满了期待!啊,天快点亮吧,我们要去Elephant Butte!








Summary: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=177167
 楼主| 发表于 2017-3-21 10:19:03 | 显示全部楼层
2017.03.14 Amerika Spring Break 2017 (contd.)

Day 3 Elephant Butte - West Fins route (YDS 5.4); Arches National Park, Utah

At the summit of Elephant Butte, Arches NP, Utah


La Sal mountains at the back


Summary: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=177167
 楼主| 发表于 2017-3-23 08:18:08 | 显示全部楼层
2017.03.14 Amerika Spring Break 2017 (contd.)

Day 3 Elephant Butte - West Fins route (YDS 5.4); Arches National Park, Utah

Descent. A rather exotic suggestion to toss the pack with the gear down this class 4 section was rejected and more traditional method was agreed upon, lowering it down that is. 8)


Class 4 rock...better not to be downclimbed like this..unless you have somebody down there with bigger body mass to stop your fall..(if you get stuck not being able to keep climbing down, it would be very hard to climb back up from this position)


Summary: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=177167
发表于 2017-3-23 08:42:15 | 显示全部楼层

[分享] Elephant Butte (2)

2017.03.14 Amerika Spring Break 2017 (contd.)

Day 3 Elephant Butte - West Fins route (YDS 5.4); Arches National Park, Utah

Butte:a hill that has steep sides and a flat top,中文“‘孤立的丘”。
Elephant Butte: the highest point or peak in Arches National Park. The peak is a flat-topped cap surrounded by many towers and fins forming one big butte.

因为这涉及到攀岩,我们准备得很仔细、充分,真的有过之而无不及。具体表现在:

1. 不仅准备了一根50m用来绳降的绳子,还准备了一根30m同时用来belay的(TR里说有bolts和slings,但是不是自己的东西,博士不放心,要双保险)
2. 各自都带了一头是hammer的ice-axe(TR里说有pitons,同样的原因,博士还额外带了一套pitons)
3. 两个系列不同尺寸的cams
4. rappel所需的各个部分自不必说,那是必须的:belay device, rope, harness, gloves
5. 因为是5.4,所以我们都准备了rock climbing shoes  
6. 其他如万一rappel中途有问题,需要返回用的chest、leg的prusik slings
7. carabiners及anchor系统所需的sling等
8. 万一要上提背包等重物,还带了pulley

(* 我们没有带登山杖,这是前一晚讨论过的:因为approach很短,接下来的都需要手脚并用,有些岩缝又窄,如果背上登山杖,万一刮住,反而影响平衡,会不安全)

那些最基本的,如水、食物、衣服、应急包等,大家心知肚明,无需赘言。我们可以说不管从哪个方面,都把最坏的情况做了考虑,所以来到TH时,完全充满了信心。公园7点开门,已是大亮,我们以为人多为患了,结果昨晚攀岩者众多的Hoodoo下冷冷清清(难道他们都喜欢下午的日光浴吗?),停车场只有一辆车,两个年轻的女孩正在背起绳子。你们去哪儿?Elephant Butte!以前去过吗?No. 那你们知道路线吗?No, but we have pictures. 我们也去,我们路上见!

我兴冲冲地向博士汇报我获得的信息:她们是大学生,也去Elephant Butte!话说间,她们已离开了TH,走向了我向往中的迷宫。不像我们,她们除了身上的harness等,一人只背绳子,另一人有一小背包,可能是两人的水和食物(唉,好一个轻装上阵啊)。我们也很快确认所带无误后,踏进了这个事后登上了我们annual list的小小王国!



Hoodoos are tall skinny spires of rock that protrude from the bottom of arid basins and "broken" lands.



Summary: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=177167
 楼主| 发表于 2017-3-23 17:35:46 | 显示全部楼层
2017.03.14 Amerika Spring Break 2017 (contd.)

Day 3 Elephant Butte - West Fins route (YDS 5.4); Arches National Park, Utah

Somewhere there is the second rappel station, which is the only practical way to get back. In this maize of hoodoos it is easy to get confused which way to go, but Vera did amazing homework, so we located it precisely!





Summary: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=177167
发表于 2017-3-23 17:52:07 | 显示全部楼层
2017.03.14 Amerika Spring Break 2017 (contd.)

Day 3 Elephant Butte - West Fins route (YDS 5.4); Arches National Park, Utah







Summary: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=177167
发表于 2017-3-23 17:56:18 | 显示全部楼层
我们没有攀岩,但是那个大象背,我们好像沿着正常的trail上去了——如果我没有搞错的话(请山花和Windy出来纠错) :lol:
 楼主| 发表于 2017-3-23 18:01:30 | 显示全部楼层
棉花糖
我们没有攀岩,但是那个大象背,我们好像沿着正常的trail上去了——如果我没有搞错的话(请山花和Windy出来纠错) :lol:


! 8)
 楼主| 发表于 2017-3-24 17:01:11 | 显示全部楼层
Elephant Butte - contd.

2nd rappel is an exciting free-air 8)










Summary: https://www.crossna.org/forum.ph ... post&pid=177167
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